LCGB Forums

Cgt75b wrote:I have a spare Italian disc if you’d like to try that Paul?

But it sounds like you may have cracked it.

Thanks. I have a couple too. Just never sure, after all these years, how flat they are.

dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?

Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.

IMO sintered pads offer the best braking available in conjunction with the OEM internal disc, Such is the braking capability that when they are used with a hydraulic conversion, as was the practice with racing, the fluid would boil unless a racing ( high temperature) fluid was used,

Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency, That's something I believed unnecessary. However, I dispensed with the M8 grub screw & fitted a large shim behind the static pad as I felt it to be much more purposeful & discourage the pad from spinning.

Mind you, I've always kept the anti-rattle circling in place & left the three pin holes as OEM, assembled with Copaslip.

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:IMO sintered pads offer the best braking available in conjunction with the OEM internal disc, Such is the braking capability that when they are used with a hydraulic conversion, as was the practice with racing, the fluid would boil unless a racing ( high temperature) fluid was used,

Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency, That's something I believed unnecessary. However, I dispensed with the M8 grub screw & fitted a large shim behind the static pad as I felt it to be much more purposeful & discourage the pad from spinning.

Mind you, I've always kept the anti-rattle circling in place & left the three pin holes as OEM, assembled with Copaslip.

Thanks for that. Hopefully, I shall be able to give it a proper road test tomorrow. I’ll report back

''Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent 'the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency,''
back in the early 80`s my club often went to watch scooter racing ,I seem to remember Taffspeed using Citreon BX or CX hand brake pads in their disc brake, or did i dream that

martyn dwane wrote: back in the early 80`s my club often went to watch scooter racing ,I seem to remember Taffspeed using Citreon BX or CX hand brake pads in their disc brake, or did i dream that

That sounds like the sort of thing that would occur, but the best kept secret was where the MSC slave cylinder seals & dustcaps came from. They were rumoured to have originated from a French car. IMO Dave Webster manufactured the best hydraulic conversion for the OEM inboard disc.....

''That sounds like the sort of thing that would occur, but the best kept secret was where the MSC slave cylinder seals & dustcaps came from. They were rumoured to have originated from a French car. IMO Dave Webster manufactured the best hydraulic conversion for the OEM inboard disc.....[/quote]''

, I believe they came from a Renault 10/12 rear brake caliper.
I still own 2 DJ hydraulic set ups, the seals seam very hard to source.

Storkfoot wrote:

dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?

Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.

I can safely say that removing the circlip from the disc has remedied the incessant screeching.

However, I have noticed that my front brake cable is 2.0mm thick, whereas the front disc cable should be the thicker 2.5mm diameter. I’ll leave this for the time being but certainly if I reverse pull the brake, I’ll change the cable.

Thanks for all the replies.

Storkfoot wrote:

Storkfoot wrote:

dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?

Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.

I can safely say that removing the circlip from the disc has remedied the incessant screeching.

However, I have noticed that my front brake cable is 2.0mm thick, whereas the front disc cable should be the thicker 2.5mm diameter. I’ll leave this for the time being but certainly if I reverse pull the brake, I’ll change the cable.

Thanks for all the replies.

If removal of the anti-rattle circlip has been the solution, then that must have been binding. An OEM in-board disc brake assembled as Innocenti design intent with adequate Copaslip applied to 'clean' OEM components will not give noise issues, regardless of pad material.

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote: If removal of the anti-rattle circlip has been the solution, then that must have been binding. An OEM in-board disc brake assembled as Innocenti design intent with adequate Copaslip applied to 'clean' OEM components will not give noise issues, regardless of pad material.

I was out on it yesterday and, lo and behold, the squealing has returned

Turn your radio up.

dickie wrote:Turn your radio up.

I tried pretty much everything mentioned in this thread. Squealing was only at slow speeds around town. Totally fine at A road motorway speeds. There was a noticeable amount of stopping improvement over standard pads. Not been able to live with the head turning I was creating for all the wrong reasons. I searched out different pads. I settled on the blue forma brand. Although not quite as good as the sintered squealing is no more and three was a noticeable improvement over other branded pads. One of my inboards is hydraulic the other is reverse pull. To be honest I prefer the reverse pull correctly setup over the hydraulic version. Braking is just at effective.

Dazts1 wrote:I tried pretty much everything mentioned in this thread. Squealing was only at slow speeds around town. Totally fine at A road motorway speeds. There was a noticeable amount of stopping improvement over standard pads. Not been able to live with the head turning I was creating for all the wrong reasons. I searched out different pads. I settled on the blue forma brand. Although not quite as good as the sintered squealing is no more and three was a noticeable improvement over other branded pads. One of my inboards is hydraulic the other is reverse pull. To be honest I prefer the reverse pull correctly setup over the hydraulic version. Braking is just at effective.

Thanks, Daz.

After another couple of days of messing around, I gave up and reverse pulled it with a set of old pads I had lying around ( possibly Scootopia or Newfren). The braking isn’t as good as it was but there is no more squealing.

I’ll order a set of the Blue Forma pads though

Paul.

Good luck Paul. I can’t understand yet why the reverse pull seems to work better than the hydraulic but I do suspect it to be the actual disc. I have a spare which I’m going to get my dad to give a light skim on the lathe. We did this to the reverse pull. I’ll keep you posted as I believe it should definitely be the better brake.

There may be something there with the skim theory. A few years ago I got a mate to skim my rear drum. It was, without doubt, the best lambretta rear brake I've ever used, but by a huge margin. A few years later, I rode the same bike and it was little more than good. My opinion is that the skim had caused the surface to be rougher and increased the friction coefficient between it and the shoes.

The same thing could obviously happen to discs and pads.