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Guys -- quick techie question, been having a bit of an intermittent clutch creep problem when the engine is hot -- I've put a new clutch cable in, adjusted it a couple of time now, when cold click into 1st & no creep at all, after a few miles and the engine is hot pull in the clutch and it creeps forward in 1st, can be difficult to get into neutral and on a bad day with clutch pulled right in the engine is still engaged. I've got new clutch plates to put in at the weekend and when I changed the oil end of last season there wasn't as much in there as I would expect? If it's not the cable adjustment any ideas or causes? -- Cheers G

I adjust mine so that its just shy of slipping.It could be that the clutch plates get hot and expand when the motor is hot and begins to creep.

Is the top of the clutch touching on the kick start inner, that's a very good possibility. i always put felt marker on my top steel and my kick start inner now , then put the side casing on and kick it over then take it off to check for marks on the two parts to see if any marking has occurred, Its surprising how they can still touch even when the kick start has been shimmed correctly and the face has been ground,

what clutch are you using by the way ?

maddogmadox wrote:Is the top of the clutch touching on the kick start inner, that's a very good possibility. i always put felt marker on my top steel and my kick start inner now , then put the side casing on and kick it over then take it off to check for marks on the two parts to see if any marking has occurred, Its surprising how they can still touch even when the kick start has been shimmed correctly and the face has been ground,

what clutch are you using by the way ?

Not sure what clutch is in there, never had to split the casing since I bought the engine about 4 years ago -- this problem only started end of last season, at times it's 100% not drag at all then pull the clutch in to change gear & it's like the clutch has only engaged a tiny bit -- when I changed the gear oil end of last season it was low, I think that might have been the cause??

best split the casings, as you've had her for 4 yrs..... never mind how many miles she did with previous owner

hullygully wrote:best split the casings, as you've had her for 4 yrs..... never mind how many miles she did with previous owner

Aye buddy -- Saturday's job -- what are the sign's I'm looking for guys when the casing gets split? Going to change the clutch plates for a starter

don't forget the springs:-
the lengths & diameters
could use a thinner top pressure plate to give the plates more freedom

hullygully wrote:don't forget the springs:-
the lengths & diameters
could use a thinner top pressure plate to give the plates more freedom

Mb clutch springs at that

ULC Soulagent wrote:

hullygully wrote:don't forget the springs:-
the lengths & diameters
could use a thinner top pressure plate to give the plates more freedom

Mb clutch springs at that

good call, new springs ordered & going in -- G

Pre-soak the new clutch plates in gear oil overnight.

try Reedsped red plates, cheaper than surflex, but last longer & are grippier than a wifes hand on her husbands wallet

hullygully wrote:try Reedsped red plates, cheaper than surflex, but last longer & are grippier than a wifes hand on her husbands wallet

That’s your excuse then

Toddy wrote:

hullygully wrote:try Reedsped red plates, cheaper than surflex, but last longer & are grippier than a wifes hand on her husbands wallet

That’s your excuse then

hullygully wrote:try Reedsped red plates, cheaper than surflex, but last longer & are grippier than a wifes hand on her husbands wallet

Second that

Check the fingers on the outer and inner bells for signs of wear where the clutch plate ears contact. If they are worn bad then ideally new parts wills be required. You can dress them up with a file to allow the plates to slide and separate more easily.

Fast n Furious wrote:Check the fingers on the outer and inner bells for signs of wear where the clutch plate ears contact. If they are worn bad then ideally new parts wills be required. You can dress them up with a file to allow the plates to slide and separate more easily.

Thanks for everyone's help - new clutch plates fitted and everything checked over (including new MB springs) -- taken the opportunity to change things up a bit carb wise so be a wee bit longer before the shake down

maddogmadox wrote:Is the top of the clutch touching on the kick start inner, that's a very good possibility. i always put felt marker on my top steel and my kick start inner now , then put the side casing on and kick it over then take it off to check for marks on the two parts to see if any marking has occurred, Its surprising how they can still touch even when the kick start has been shimmed correctly and the face has been ground,

what clutch are you using by the way ?

Was out today and same issue so up on the bench it goes, casing off & guess what -- the top steel is rough and has grinding marks on it, I look at the inner of the kickstart and there is an area rubbed smooth. This has been in contact, generating heat & then heated up the clutch plates I think -- dremell time tomorrow I think -- G

hullygully wrote:don't forget the springs:-
the lengths & diameters
could use a thinner top pressure plate to give the plates more freedom

Morning Guys and apologies for the potentially dull question but can you let me know what difference a thinner top pressure plate could make? The clutch is just a standard 4 x plate GP clutch -- Thanks, Grant.

A thinner top steel pressure plate will give more clearance for the clutch to separate.

You appear to have nearly sorted the problems, but the kickstart interference has surely caught us all out in our time.

Unfortunately, clutches require first class components & some components may look good, but not be fit for purpose. For instance, the centre bell will deflect if it is made from old milk bottle tops like some of the Indian ones I have found in engines.

Springs should always be checked for matching fully compressed (coil bound) length (even if they were sourced from somebody that virtually claims to have invented the wheel.....)

The clutch actuating lever WILL give more compression if it is shortened (cut & weld) OR simply angled more toward the rear.

Poor quality friction & steel plates will deflect &/or catch in operation.

Lastly, a bl**dy thick gasket will save you money as more likely to be re-useable & gain space.

A clutch can usually be sorted & if even I can fit a CLW six plater in a powerful TS engine without issue, then I'm sure that by a methodical process, you will get there! Mind you, I ' cheated' because from the outset I used ATF....

isn't there a shorter clutch arm available somewhere?