LCGB Forums

Not sure if a clamp meter will measure what you need or to the accuracy you want
I use a £15 analogue meter as some of the digital ones down measure ac at low frequencies
https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/analog-m ... ol_0&nbc=1

Yes- wires open circuit -

It's not only a clamp meter. I'm sure it'll be as accurate as a £15 analogue. Just make sure you don't confuse the ac and dc settings.

MickYork wrote:It's not only a clamp meter. I'm sure it'll be as accurate as a £15 analogue. Just make sure you don't confuse the ac and dc settings.

Agreed, set it to the Volts 1000 setting and leave the leads connected to the meter as in the photo.

MickYork wrote:It's not only a clamp meter. I'm sure it'll be as accurate as a £15 analogue. Just make sure you don't confuse the ac and dc settings.

And that’s where I was probably going wrong on the ac and dc settings, quick utube vid led me on the right path
Time too have a another bash at it

Did you get it sorted Shane?
I've got a similar problem with the series1, think it's either a stator fault or the flywheel needs re magnetising.

If you were getting around 70Vac at tickover, then the stator would seem to be ok. Most likely that the Zener diode inside the regulator has blown short circuit which is dragging your AC value down when it's connected.
Just disconnect the output side of the regulator and do the test again to prove this is the case which will make sure the problem isn't to do with a short circuit in the wiring on the output side of the regualtor.

Not sure if I was doing it right but I disconnected yellow stator from rectifier then attached it directly to positive on multimeter and negative terminal to wire on frame.
Tickover was about 7v ac, revving it up showed roughly 12v ac.
All the stator resistance measurements were within limits as per Sticky's book and the lights are working fine when attached to a charged battery.

Marty ULC wrote:Did you get it sorted Shane?
I've got a similar problem with the series1, think it's either a stator fault or the flywheel needs re magnetising.

Only just seen this Marty so sorry for late reply
I changed stator and wassel over too a Scootronics system, better but still needs over 3000rpm before I see my volt meter climb into the 13/14 volts

ULC Soulagent wrote:......I changed stator and wassel over too a Scootronics system, better but still needs over 3000rpm before I see my volt meter climb into the 13/14 volts

That sounds about right, you wont put much if anything into the battery around town as even the most trumpeted 6 pole DC stators barely put out enough power to charge a battery as well as powering a decent headlamp. If you havent already done so you should change the rear for an LED and fit either an LED headlamp bulb or HID conversion. Ive done this on both of mine and it works very well

coaster wrote:

ULC Soulagent wrote:......I changed stator and wassel over too a Scootronics system, better but still needs over 3000rpm before I see my volt meter climb into the 13/14 volts

That sounds about right, you wont put much if anything into the battery around town as even the most trumpeted 6 pole DC stators barely put out enough power to charge a battery as well as powering a decent headlamp. If you havent already done so you should change the rear for an LED and fit either an LED headlamp bulb or HID conversion. Ive done this on both of mine and it works very well

Hi Coaster,
Already have led rear and led front side, also run a bunch of LEDs inside my horncast opening, I’ve tried the main headlight in Led format but they don’t last long( cheap Chinatown). Might look into HID setup

The first HID setup cost me around £5 off ebay and is still going strong after several thousand miles and the 2nd was a bit more but came as a pair for car fitment and has just failed after a prolonged soaking on the way back down the M6 in very heavy rain, I suspect its the ballast as its situated where the horn used to be and prior to that had been working fine for getting on for 10k miles. I also use the Jockeys headlamp conversions as the reflector and clear glass are way better than the original.

HID's do give a really good light but the downside is that they really dont like water.
Forget the chinese BA20d LED's cos they don't have the right Hi/Lo beam pattern.
A company called Classiccarleds do a Ba20d LED which has an integral beam pattern adjustement to get the dipped beam offset correct towards the kerb, which is set by a small allen screw. Quite useful for those that do continental touring me thinks.
Not tried one myself yet, but some local mates running old vintage cars swear by them. They are however not suitable for AC scoots. Only battery DC.
A bit pricey at £28 +vat a pop... but if does the job......

Fast n Furious wrote:HID's do give a really good light but the downside is that they really dont like water.
Forget the chinese BA20d LED's cos they don't have the right Hi/Lo beam pattern.
A company called Classiccarleds do a Ba20d LED which has an integral beam pattern adjustement to get the dipped beam offset correct towards the kerb, which is set by a small allen screw. Quite useful for those that do continental touring me thinks.
Not tried one myself yet, but some local mates running old vintage cars swear by them. They are however not suitable for AC scoots. Only battery DC.
A bit pricey at £28 +vat a pop... but if does the job......

I’ll check them out FnF

Took the plunge @ £33.45

I used the Jockeys H4 headlamp conversion with both of mine as two mates had experimented with HID years ago and concluded that the old style reflector and reeded lens just scattered the light all over the place

I also had to use a Jockeys H4 reflector when I did my HID conversion to get the best results.
However....This one looks to be a refracted projection lensed bulb rather than the prefocused reflection bulbs of yesteryear that we are all familiar with. so no need for a good reflector.
This why the classic car boys like them, cos they have even worse headlamp reflectors than us.
How the light passes through the headlamp glass though might cause some refracted scatter issues?


Guess we'll have to wait for some feedback from our resident Guinea pig here.

ULC Soulagent wrote:
Took the plunge @ £33.45

Watching with interest! Can you please post a review once you've fitted it?

Bloody impressive thing it is, I’d gone for the whiter than white 4700k. Took a rip on scoot last night -1* just too see if I got any other road users flashing me to say that I’m blinding them, Not one flash back main beam is just nuts
Well recommended by the Guinea Pig

What model of headlamp did you fit it to Shane and what was the dipped beam offset like?

Fast n Furious wrote:What model of headlamp did you fit it to Shane and what was the dipped beam offset like?

Fitted to my special headlight.there is adjustment for the dipped beam but didn’t need it as it puts out a good spread on the ground. I’ll take a few pics the next time I’m out.