corrado wrote:Tyres are difficult to fit to tubeless rims and very easily damaged in the wrong hands.
A few years ago I fitted some Audi alloy wheels on my VW, they were the same size and had the same 5 stud pitch, 5 x 100mm, but the centre bore of the VW rim was 57mm and the Audi 60mm and were designed to fit tight onto the centre spigot. I could plonk the VW rim on the axle and it'd sit firm while I aligned all the bolts, with the Audi rim I couldn't do this and had to take the weight of the tyre and rim with my arm at the same time as trying to align the bolts. I attended car shows at at time and showed my car so it was a regular event taking the wheels on and off cleaning the rears (and the wheel wells). It was always a pain in the rear.
hub centric rims can be fitted to hubs with a smaller centre if you use profiled lug nuts or studs flat nuts and profiled washers.
but i'm with you totally. getting the things on without a Stud to hang the wheel on is a pain... 1 stud to help mount. then removed to be replaced with a lug nut is helpful......
with a too big centre,the profile of the lug nuts or washers centres the rim. trouble is the hub centric steel rims usually have either holes in them for flat nuts and/or flat washers or in the case of alloy sometimes take a sex nut i.e a nut with a sleeve that fits through the mounting hole. the sex nut will have a profile for a seat that is deep down the hole...to help with centering, that seat is not easily reached with a profiled washer as the hole is usually too narrow. so the original nuts need to be used on those wheels
so you need the dished holes in the wheels and the corresponding profile to the nut or washer
or convert to studs and nuts or have a wheel mounting tool/stud
or you get some wheel centering rings made up that you press into you wheels that fit snug on the hub centre....
either way....provided the wheel is done up evenly and to the correct torque it sticks the the car hub via friction and should not move. the studs or lug nuts should never see shear forces..... weight of car, cornering forces and those caused by acceleration and braking should never be great enough to allow the wheel to move on the hub as the friction forces are massive provided the nuts are torqued correctly and a flat clean contact face is presented by both parts
on a scooter the success of the mounting will depend on friction and the strength of the mounting sections in the wheel.
bendy cheap rims OR
rims with power coat or new paint between rim face and hub flat area around the stud
will come loose eventually and stretch the holes unless re torque regularly until they stop coming loose... few weeks....maybe a month of regular driving
In/out stretch if the rim does not fit well on the hub and in the direction of wheel travel if the paint or powder coat moves in the junction between hub and rim.
same principle used to keep a car flywheel on flywheel and boss on end of crank all rusty or you get loads of loctite between the two...flywheel comes off and smashes the bellhousing. perfectly clean metal on metal. friction/microwelds keep it on and all the nuts/lugs do is provide the pressure that creates the friction...they see no shear forces....therefore can't be chewed snapped or whatever.
comes down to a properly centred wheel Then the hardness and cleanness of the interface between the two and the torque used on the nuts/studs to mount the wheel. Paint or powder coat just acts as a lubricant to defeat the friction until they have moved smeared or chipped off to a final resting place.
i lost a front wheel on the edgware road 66 VW Van all just in new paint good job it had hub caps .... full van. tools under all of it....i am now really careful
dave