LCGB Forums

Storkfoot wrote:

I have to admire your tenacity over this Paul, WAY more pacience than me

When I asked the original question, I didn’t even realise there was a bearing inside. As soon as I found that out, it seemed illogical to just get the whole actuator plated without stripping it down.

To be honest, I just followed the instructions I was given, as always

This is excellent information and I’d now like to refurbish my disc actuator(s)

How do I tell a genuine actuator versus a remade actuator?
I’d rather not waste good money on an inferior actuator with poorly made ramps versus the real deal

I understand the three dots on the arm is one indication - is there anything else I should look for?

I’ve looked in sticky’s and unfortunately there’s nothing here to guide me

From memory, the “dimples” that the ball bearings sit in are well machined, as in my pictures above, on originals. The remade one didn’t have a pronounced ridge. Of course, you’d have to open it up to see this but as most bearings must be in a poor state after all these years, that seems sensible anyway.

By way of feedback, I have done this rebuild on two actuators. One has still not seen the road but the one I have used works very well.

Thanks.

On your 1st post there’s a picture of actuator you are refurbishing
Did this actuator turn out to be original with the desired ramps

I’m asking as the central spindel as a distinctive peening
I have seen others with the three lever dots, but a domed peening without the distinctive peening ring per your image

I wonder if this peening is a 2nd original or not clue ?

Storkfoot wrote:From memory, the “dimples” that the ball bearings sit in are well machined, as in my pictures above, on originals. The remade one didn’t have a pronounced ridge. Of course, you’d have to open it up to see this but as most bearings must be in a poor state after all these years, that seems sensible anyway.
.

You're right about the pronounced edge on original ones. Also, the originals have a 'cone' machined into them whereas the remade ones are more concave. When I tested them back to back on a recent build, I found the remade ones to be useless, almost anyway.

Unfortunately, you can't tell this until you've stripped them.

Here’s another two I now have. The top one is off an early unrestored S3 TV175 so I am almost certain it is original. I think the one below is a pattern copy that has been chromed. The preening and dimples look different.



If you search for a picture of the Casa Lambretta copy online, there are no dimples and the preening is non existent. Doubtless, there have been several pattern copies over the years. I know there was a Vietnamese made one several years back.

Here's two of mine on the bench earlier today
I think the one on the left is a copy as it's the worst performing of the 4 I have. What I mean is the lever has to travel the longest before the pads bite. it's nearly impossible to setup the brake correctly - spongy feeling, lever hits the bars too easily

The one on the right is possibly original. Nice operation, easy to setup the brake's biting point, not spongy like the copy
I notice the reverse side of the actuator plate is convex towards the edge, where as the suspect copy is flat





The actuator on my TV - very good operation
Probably the best operating actuator I have



The actuator on my GP - lack of dimples. I think this is a Casa actuator
good operation, much better than my suspect copy actuator



Finally - Saturday night were never better - posting pictures of Lambretta actuators

This just reinforces that remade Lambretta components tend to be inferior to OEM items IMHO.

The cables themselves should be the stoutest that can fit & I researched this some time ago, even contacting UK manufacturers about the feasibility of batches of nominally 3 mm inner with rectangular section coils for the outer.

Purely out of interest I discovered only the other day in an old Motor Cycle Mechanics magazine that Lambretta Concessionaires actually advocated the reverse pull operation & easing out the disc holes as an approved modification. The anti-rattle circlip should still be retained. The article said under no circumstances should reverse pull operation be applied to drum brakes. Chickens! TV175 S!! reverse pull drum brakes are really good stoppers