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jonhunter wrote:Great idea that!!
Once youve inflated to 5 psi how long does it have to hold for?
Thanks jon
Captain Pugwash wrote:I've tried a couple of different leak tests including the inner tube method but the best one I've used to date has an adapter that fits into the carb rubber, this adapter has the pressure gauge screwed directly into it, when it's under pressure it can be read at the inlet stub.
The kit uses less connections so gives fewer chances of leaks developing in the test kit, plus it pressures up easily.
Paulnobodyimportant wrote:Keep putting off leak down test, but taking an engine out this weekend so I've got to motivate myself. So going to try the rubber tube method. But having no experience with mountain bikes, I note that there are different internal diameters. Now I appreciate that they will stretch, but what the best internal diameter to buy for a 30mm carb and a TS1 exhaust stub, don't want to get it too big so as to end up with the tube end leaking.
Sticky wrote:There's a section about this in the Edition 3. Position of the piston isn't massively important because even near the top the pressure will slowly leak past the rings until it evens out both above and below the piston, however this looks like a slow leak until they balance. If the piston is at BDC (reed motor) then all the ports are open then the pressure is the same throughout. Several tuners have told me not to try to get a perfect seal, particularly on a brand new motor where the seals have yet to bed in perfectly against the crank - very slow leakage can still be acceptable.
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