I dont understand?? can you help?

[hullygully]

I've just found the same problem with my TS1, fine when cold, but racing after 3 or 4 miles, being driving me crazy for 2 months of plug chopping, stator changes, pilot swopseys, carb changes, CDi swops, plugs............................... then noticed a fuel bubble from one of my cyl hd nuts on tickover, all nuts still torqued down, so top end strip

[lam1962brettagg]

checked everything on the list.
still no joy.
when started it either runs too fast when adjustment made to throttle cable runs too slow and no idle speed is achievable using the tickover/idle screw.
anymore suggestions very welcome.

[lam1962brettagg]

I've just found the same problem with my TS1, fine when cold, but racing after 3 or 4 miles, being driving me crazy for 2 months of plug chopping, stator changes, pilot swopseys, carb changes, CDi swops, plugs............................... then noticed a fuel bubble from one of my cyl hd nuts on tickover, all nuts still torqued down, so top end strip

sorry to hear that.
I did notice a fuel smell when my probs started, could be the same problem??
hope you get it sorted.

[hullygully]

ditto bud

[gaz_powell]

I've just found the same problem with my TS1, fine when cold, but racing after 3 or 4 miles, being driving me crazy for 2 months of plug chopping, stator changes, pilot swopseys, carb changes, CDi swops, plugs............................... then noticed a fuel bubble from one of my cyl hd nuts on tickover, all nuts still torqued down, so top end strip

I'm chasing the same at the minute on TS1, starts fine, ticks over perfect, then out you go and racing. Limp home, turn it off, restart and ticking over fine. Soapy waster test showed slight blow on stub to down pipe, sorted that.... Still same. Seeing as I've got a day Friday, with no Cleethorpes... Top end off, check studs, head base, hopefully studs okay and just a clean up and new gaskets, nuts washers etc.
Don't you just love them....

[MickYork]

I pressure tested mine after a holed piston, soapy water and bubbles coming out of stud on cylinder head. Stripped it down and crack on casing caused by overtightening the stud (i think )

20150420_194046 by mick leaf, on Flickr

Got the casing welded and still running after 10k miles......

[nickwill]

Hi, I would suggest going back to whoever fitted the kit if that's possible, at least they should still be familiar with your engine and setup.
I've spent many hours trying to sort out problems and ended up wasting time and money barking up various 'wrong trees'. Educational but frustrating.
Nick

[lam1962brettagg]

Hi, I would suggest going back to whoever fitted the kit if that's possible, at least they should still be familiar with your engine and setup.
I've spent many hours trying to sort out problems and ended up wasting time and money barking up various 'wrong trees'. Educational but frustrating.
Nick

thanks Nick
yes educational but more frustrating than anything.
thought I new alot having had scoots for nearly 40yrs but obviously dont

[lam1962brettagg]

What is your carb set up ....jets, needle, slide, etc

It's possible your pilot is too big ?

Hi Mick
jetting as follows,
starter 70
idle jet 50
main jet 94
needle not sure
idle emulsion tube again not sure.
hope that helps
30mm dellorto
af exhaust
rt 195 kit
bgm stator 12v
battery model ac and dc
cheers

[coaster]

You really need to find out what needle and atomiser you have, no one can give meaningfull advice without although I suspect yout pilot/idle jet is a tad small, thought 55 was more or less standard on most kitted lammys

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

You really need to find out what needle and atomiser you have, no one can give meaningfull advice without although I suspect yout pilot/idle jet is a tad small, thought 55 was more or less standard on most kitted lammys

Really?

Piston ported will tend to have a smaller pilot than reed valve engines. More so if an air filter is fitted.

Simply because all engines have a start & stop point of tick over speed, I think it worth the time setting up the preliminary jetting. IMO there are a lot of 'tuned' engines set up far too rich. Atomisers are yet another example of oversizing, as the smallest possible should be used to allow the engine to run WOT with no main jet to allow the finer, incremental control of fuel delivery. There is no point in oversizing unless it helps bragging down the pub

On occasion with full race Group Four top ends, pilots have been dropped down into the thirties....

[coaster]

You really need to find out what needle and atomiser you have, no one can give meaningfull advice without although I suspect yout pilot/idle jet is a tad small, thought 55 was more or less standard on most kitted lammys

Really?

Piston ported will tend to have a smaller pilot than reed valve engines. More so if an air filter is fitted.

Simply because all engines have a start & stop point of tick over speed, I think it worth the time setting up the preliminary jetting. IMO there are a lot of 'tuned' engines set up far too rich. Atomisers are yet another example of oversizing, as the smallest possible should be used to allow the engine to run WOT with no main jet to allow the finer, incremental control of fuel delivery. There is no point in oversizing unless it helps bragging down the pub

On occasion with full race Group Four top ends, pilots have been dropped down into the thirties....

Im always happy to be corrected but I undertood that going too small on the pilot was dangerous on a road bike as if the throttle is closed after a high speed run a weak condition can occurr. Could be miss remembering about the 55 pilot but pretty sure thats all I've ended up with.....could explain why I tend to use more fuel than others I ride with

[lam1962brettagg]

thanks for all the replies
all abit beyond me but kinda understand.
I'll try and find out what needle size etc I' ve got.
much appreciated

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

You really need to find out what needle and atomiser you have, no one can give meaningfull advice without although I suspect yout pilot/idle jet is a tad small, thought 55 was more or less standard on most kitted lammys

Really?

Piston ported will tend to have a smaller pilot than reed valve engines. More so if an air filter is fitted.

Simply because all engines have a start & stop point of tick over speed, I think it worth the time setting up the preliminary jetting. IMO there are a lot of 'tuned' engines set up far too rich. Atomisers are yet another example of oversizing, as the smallest possible should be used to allow the engine to run WOT with no main jet to allow the finer, incremental control of fuel delivery. There is no point in oversizing unless it helps bragging down the pub

On occasion with full race Group Four top ends, pilots have been dropped down into the thirties....

Im always happy to be corrected but I undertood that going too small on the pilot was dangerous on a road bike as if the throttle is closed after a high speed run a weak condition can occurr. Could be miss remembering about the 55 pilot but pretty sure thats all I've ended up with.....could explain why I tend to use more fuel than others I ride with

I suppose the question is what is being sought in tuning an engine & how it will be ridden. In racing, every little bit of braking is required & for what it's worth, that includes engine braking. The thing is, that is done down through the gears with a hefty blip of gas. It's probably intuitional as seizures are extremely rare these days.

Personally, as an owner/tuner continuously since 1973, two strokes are my main doctrine & I don't ride them as if they are a car/four stroke. That doesn't make me 'right' but until there are further enhancements to allow for total shut off from WOT, such as autolube or a vacuum sensing device to feed lubrication, the best practice is keep some revs going. USA 'crossers have auxiliary cable operated tick-over lifters which may give peace of mind. Our fan cooled two strokes are unusual, but not unique, other than we seem stuck with pre-mix. That may be the significant difference between the very powerful fan cooled 'sleds etc because they race them & don't have to feather them from WOT to tick over.

I know of a guy that went to the IOW rallies there & back on choke. Now, IMO, that is certainly some safety margin.....

[lam1962brettagg]

Thanks for all the posts and info.
after sealing the exhaust 'properly' with solid copper gasket, longer stud nuts and a smidge of silicone bathroom sealant found it still wasn't playing ball. took the scoot back to dealer who found that the stat plate made in 2018 but only fitted recently failed, or rather the ht coil did, (BGM!!) MIND!! fitted a new bgm stat plate all seems well so far.......
the faulty bgm plate only had 200 miles on it!
cheers again

[Fast n Furious]

Here we go again.......
The most unreliable new lambretta part on the market rears its ugly head once more.

It is absolutely essential that the LT coil on any elctronic ignition stator plate is reworked before using it.
It really is absolute "pot luck" if yours has been trouble free.
They all have an inherent construction flaw irrespective of who made it or who sells it or what fancy box it comes in.
Saying all that........ the symptoms you describe in yout posting are not really consistant with the diagnosis but then these shit stators can throw up some very erroneous wobblies..... Hmmm.

[lam1962brettagg]

Here we go again.......
The most unreliable new lambretta part on the market rears its ugly head once more.

It is absolutely essential that the LT coil on any elctronic ignition stator plate is reworked before using it.
It really is absolute "pot luck" if yours has been trouble free.
They all have an inherent construction flaw irrespective of who made it or who sells it or what fancy box it comes in.
Saying all that........ the symptoms you describe in yout posting are not really consistant with the diagnosis but then these shit stators can throw up some very erroneous wobblies..... Hmmm.

thanks for the comment, I never realised stator LT coils were so crap.
can I ask how its to be 'reworked?' please. not sure if the dealer has done anything to it b4 fitting it.

cheers

[gaz_powell]

Good result.

Agreed stator pick up and coil failures manifest in many strange ways... We've all experienced them.

[coaster]

Here we go again.......
The most unreliable new lambretta part on the market rears its ugly head once more.

It is absolutely essential that the LT coil on any elctronic ignition stator plate is reworked before using it.
It really is absolute "pot luck" if yours has been trouble free.
They all have an inherent construction flaw irrespective of who made it or who sells it or what fancy box it comes in.
Saying all that........ the symptoms you describe in yout posting are not really consistant with the diagnosis but then these shit stators can throw up some very erroneous wobblies..... Hmmm.

thanks for the comment, I never realised stator LT coils were so crap.
can I ask how its to be 'reworked?' please. not sure if the dealer has done anything to it b4 fitting it.

cheers

he problem with the LT coil is that it is made of many thousands of turns od wure about the thickness of hair. he wire is insulated by a thin coating of lacquer. That's all fine until you mount it on a Lambretta where it gets subjected to heat and vibration. The vibration and the heating and cooling causes the lacquer insulation to wear away which causes some of the coils to short out thus reducing the voltage output. The very fine wire can also break, usuallt where it connects to the solder tag. I bought myself a bottle of coil lacquer a few years ago and use it it soak the LT coil as much as possible and then apply araldite to all connections on the stator and also use it to 'anchor' any wires to something solid. since adopting that practice I havent suffered a stator failure and thats including cheap indian, BGM and Scootronics. Ive just bought a Vape and that will get the same treatment

[lam1962brettagg]

thanks for the info for a remedy. I've got the 'old' 2018 bgm stator so I will get a replacement coil if possible and treat as you describe and keep it as back up incase the new one fails.
thanks again, invaluable piece of advice!