LCGB Forums

Hi all
No rear brakes, hub off and oil everywhere, new bearings & seals fitted when engine rebuilt about 100mls ago. Bearing is ok as no play or rocking so just gonna change seal insitu. I did read somewhere about fitting the seal by using a section of a thin plastic water bottle to slide it over! Can anybody shed some light on that? Also is there anything else I should know about as this is a big job for my limited experience!
Cheers all
Spl

There is very likely some sort of support ring (such as a cut-off bottle top) that should make things easier for you, but remember that the lip should face the higher pressure contents it is trying to contain, in this case, the gearbox oil.

The lack of lubrication will cause a seal to wear out & the surface that the lip runs on should not be too polished. For the oil to be retained in the area that the seal lip runs, it is worth just making the surface a little 'matt' by Scotchbriting it.

Thanks WT1 notes and will do
Spl

also have a check around the outside of the brg as it fits in the casing, you could have a leak there instead of the seal

hullygully wrote:also have a check around the outside of the brg as it fits in the casing, you could have a leak there instead of the seal

I’ve had that on an engine before

I've got an indian GP on the bench at the moment with a leaking seal around the outer edge. I doubt it's an undersized seal. Most proably an oversized bore, in which case, I hope to get away with wrapping a new seal with a bit of PTFE tape to pack it out.

Fast n Furious wrote:I've got an indian GP on the bench at the moment with a leaking seal around the outer edge. I doubt it's an undersized seal. Most proably an oversized bore, in which case, I hope to get away with wrapping a new seal with a bit of PTFE tape to pack it out.

That may work well, but I'd be more inclined to use an oil proof sealant, preferably non-setting. If concentricity is a concern, it shouldn't be, as any eccentricity will be 'static' once assembled & seals can cope with a fair amount without compromise. Red Hermetite should work.

The alternative is to source an alternative to the inevitable Rolf, which IMHO have a less compliant outer covering. The designations have changed of late, but Type 'A' is the one to go for nowadays.

Also check the O ring on the layshaft. 20mm x 2mm Viton ones are available on eBay fairly cheaply

Leotech wrote:Also check the O ring on the layshaft. 20mm x 2mm Viton ones are available on eBay fairly cheaply

why would you need a viton o-ring in this location? seems like some dealers are selling sets of 5 viton seals when only 2 come into contact with unleaded and are required.

You don't need viton for any reason other than they were the ones I found.

Well... the seal was completely goosed and so was the bearing.... and the brake shoes

strewth!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had that happen to me coming home from a LCGB do in Blackpool, used the M62 all the way home, but mine was a Casa rear hub bearing, top of the range @ the time, BUT plastic ballie spacers that split into 3 sections!!!!

Fast n Furious wrote:Well... the seal was completely goosed and so was the bearing.... and the brake shoes

It makes you wonder whether there is such a thing as 'product liability' when a component has been sold that should be as reliable as the OEM part.....

Upon the launch of so many 'uprated' parts, they are usually accompanied with a great fanfare & seemingly the almost exclusive facility of a certain Facebook site.

Now we see yet another failure, I can't hear any trumpets.....

I received an apologetic letter from Italy & a replacement brg, but that didn't go back in my TS1
but there was no mention of my laundry bill for the cleaning of my shreddies

This bearing was the original Indian one as fitted 40 years ago. There was bits of mangled metal bearing cage everywhere.
The ironic thing is..... it was in for a holed piston repair...... had it run for a few more miles, then all 21 stone of him might have come a right cropper!

Gods and their mysterious ways eh?

That’s a big hole

Yeah.... the molten ally got all jammed up down the side of the piston which then wrecked the cylinder plating.