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missing lynx wrote:Looks like the shoes are glazed through overheating which would need removing if you intend to re-use them. You can get them with diagonal cuts in the lining which is suppose to aid cooling
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:IMO, apart from the shoes were never in full contact - to be rectified as mentioned - therein lies the problem. With the valleys & troughs of the undressed shoes, the brake dust has built up in the low areas. That will have diminished the limited working area of the shoes even further. The consequences of the abrasive dust build up have also done the hub lining no good as well.
Thankfully, everything is correctable but I would advise that you assemble with just a trailing shoe with emery paper stuck on it to turn out the gouged portion of the lining to keep it cylindrical whilst ensuring the resultant dust is cleared as you do so. By that, I would keep the hub horizontal to allow the dust to drop out. Obviously, the converse of that - emery stuck to the lining - is a method by which to trim the shoes.
I believe that OEM drum brakes will perform extremely well if they are assembled correctly but that includes shoe trimming/bedding in. If you consider how large the drum is compared to wheel size, there is a mechanical advantage compared to motorcycles that used drum brakes.
Storkfoot wrote:Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:IMO, apart from the shoes were never in full contact - to be rectified as mentioned - therein lies the problem. With the valleys & troughs of the undressed shoes, the brake dust has built up in the low areas. That will have diminished the limited working area of the shoes even further. The consequences of the abrasive dust build up have also done the hub lining no good as well.
Thankfully, everything is correctable but I would advise that you assemble with just a trailing shoe with emery paper stuck on it to turn out the gouged portion of the lining to keep it cylindrical whilst ensuring the resultant dust is cleared as you do so. By that, I would keep the hub horizontal to allow the dust to drop out. Obviously, the converse of that - emery stuck to the lining - is a method by which to trim the shoes.
I believe that OEM drum brakes will perform extremely well if they are assembled correctly but that includes shoe trimming/bedding in. If you consider how large the drum is compared to wheel size, there is a mechanical advantage compared to motorcycles that used drum brakes.
Thanks for that. I’ll do as you suggest.
I know that you’ll invariably never get a brake shoe that is all in contact with the hub, but I was surprised that there were such large areas that weren’t in contact and allowed the build up of brake dust. That said, the shoes are pretty new.
I assume that the brake dust which encrusted the shoes has different properties when over a certain temperature. The following day, when the temperature had dropped, the brake was okay again.
Fast n Furious wrote:Have a good checkover of your rear wheel bearing. If the cage has broken up it will lead to oil leaking past the seal.
Storkfoot wrote:Fast n Furious wrote:Have a good checkover of your rear wheel bearing. If the cage has broken up it will lead to oil leaking past the seal.
I was looking at this. I always fear the worst
It looks like the seal was leaking at the bottom but, yes, I have resigned myself to running it for a hundred miles, or so, and checking again. I don’t think the seal that was in there had been in too long but then it is easy to snag them when putting them in.
Thanks for the heads up I think it is an original hub bearing.
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Both the retaining thick plate & the spring plate are bowed intentionally, but you most probably mean yours are excessive.
IMHO Rolf seals are very good. Quite why Lambretta 'specialists' dabble in the production of components often best left & trusted with other, power transmission component manufacturers is a mystery to me. Take the example of remade rear hub bearings with plastic cages which are potential death traps. Frank will be spinning in his grave knowing that they came etched with the word INNOCENTI....
Stepping down from my soapbox did you ensure that the surface of the bearing where the seal lip runs was rough enough & lubricated? It should not be polished & a suitable finish can be achieved with a Scotchbrite pad. Without a texture to retain oil, the lip will burn out.
Storkfoot wrote:
I use Rockoil Lite Gear Oil on non standard clutches and whilst this is very thin, I run it on my TS1 and have never had this issue. The TS1 rear hub bearing was new ( can’t remember where from) when I first built that engine in 2010.
Any thoughts on good new rear hub bearings?
Fast n Furious wrote:I like the new AF double row bearing. Seems to do the job.
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