LCGB Forums

Fitted a new 12v electronic stator, got 60 miles out of it before it was goosed!

Is this a record.





Had it in the workshop a while so cant even remember where I bought it to send back.

I suppose I can solder on a new LT coil.

ALL stators especially Indian ones benefit from some 're-enforcememt prior to use. The earth tag rivit needs additional peening as they come lose. All soldered joints need careful examination and re-soldered if nesessary and then mix up some Araldite and put a blob on the earth tag and all soldered joints. Also use it to anchor any wires that can move to something solid. glue the pickup bolt too

Na. I've seen them fail before they get to end of the street!

I’ve had a scooter restorations Indian 12 volt kit on my scooter for longer than I can remember without any trouble at all, we will see if the scootronics one is as good, time will tell.

Nothing wrong with Indian.

Other well known brands fail with great regularity don’t be fooled by the name plus brand.

Cheers

Cgt75b.

Cgt75b wrote:I’ve had a scooter restorations Indian 12 volt kit on my scooter for longer than I can remember without any trouble at all, we will see if the scootronics one is as good, time will tell.

Nothing wrong with Indian.

Other well known brands fail with great regularity don’t be fooled by the name plus brand.

Cheers

Cgt75b.

So have I, I have some Indian stators that are probably 20 years old. I have also had the latest greatest ignition products fail also.

I was just making a bit of a fun post about the 60 miles more than a serious product review.

Fast n Furious wrote:Na. I've seen them fail before they get to end of the street!

you got that far......................

Yeah.... but at least it was within pushable distance back to the workshop

My Indian stator has been on my GP since at least 1998.

If we're playing 'Stator Top Trumps' I've never had an OEM Innocenti stator fail. Considering that they are usually swapped out with the excuse of 'reliability' the only component known to actually fail is the condenser & even that is rarely terminal as far as engine failing to run.....

Agreed WT1 but I've noted how quickly some of the available replacement condensors fail (!). You're absolutely right that the Ducati OEM systems are typically VERY reliable and it is a shame that the aftermarket parts to fix them are not so good.

The problem with contact breaker stators is that there is very little market demand for any spares. The replacement condensors that are available are usually new old stock units that have been sat on a shelf somewhere for decades where the internal electrolyte has evaporated away making them useless. This is a problem for all classic bikes.

Adam_Winstone wrote:Agreed WT1 but I've noted how quickly some of the available replacement condensors fail (!). You're absolutely right that the Ducati OEM systems are typically VERY reliable and it is a shame that the aftermarket parts to fix them are not so good.

I was fixing a mates 150 Super Vespa, It was on points, I had to fit a new condenser. It also had issues with the lights, by the time I'd kicked it and ran it on and off most of the morning checking the lights etc. it stopped starting again.

Looked at loads of things, It was the new condenser i'd only fitted the afternoon before!

Yep, I too have fitted replacement condensors, soldering correctly and not overheating for a prolonged period, only to find that the condensor fails in a very short period. Replacing in the same manner, with a decent replacement, has then been reliable for years!

If we could find out the characteristics of original condensers: capacitance, voltage (less important as long as you stay above that value) and dimensions (just measure obviously), then maybe there are modern alternatives rather than NOS.

Certainly, there are modern alternatives but likely not with the same dimensions so would probably need to be fitted externally.

Anyone know the capacitance in particular?

dickie wrote:If we could find out the characteristics of original condensers: capacitance, voltage (less important as long as you stay above that value) and dimensions (just measure obviously), then maybe there are modern alternatives rather than NOS.

Certainly, there are modern alternatives but likely not with the same dimensions so would probably need to be fitted externally.

Anyone know the capacitance in particular?

It looks like you've volunteered but I will try & find out the capacitance.

TBH we used to run external capacitors for their reliability in racing. I think mine were from a Ford Corsair....

I might be a lone voice here, but I don't have a very high regard for points ignition. properly timed and gapped they are fine but the performance starts to drop off from the moment you fire the engine up. Not immediately obvious but notiable after a thousand miles or so. Then its off with the rear runner and cowl and performing keyhole surgery to adjust them through the window in the flywheel. I had a wire break off the capacitor once which was a right pain bodging back on in a layby. Not just Lambrettas, countless minis, Cortinas, Vivas all required the points to be replaced at approx 3k miles. I'd rather strengthen an electronic stator (easily done) and carry a cheap indian CDI as a backup/test/get you home item

Generally, the condenser value for any magneto ignition will be between 0.1-0.3uF and have a working voltage in excess of 300V.
On a single cylinder magneto, the primary current flow will always be in the same direction every time the points open. So, if the contacts show signs of pitting (a tip on one side and a corresponding pit on the other), the capacitance value needs to be adjusted. If the contact material transfers from the negative to the positive point, the condenser capacitance should be increased. If the transfer is from the positive to the negative point, condenser capacitance should be decreased.

I use EasyCap CU/220s as replacements for condensers on points stators: http://brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm



After I experienced intermittent ignition drop-outs when hot, I replaced the original Ducati condenser with an EasyCap. No further issues (well not ignition related!) since fitting it about four years ago. It requires adapting the generic PCB to suit and is not the cheapest item. I measured the capacitance of on original Ducato condenser and found it to be ~440nF but the EasyCap 220nF seems to work well for me.

dickie wrote:If we could find out the characteristics of original condensers: capacitance, voltage (less important as long as you stay above that value) and dimensions (just measure obviously), then maybe there are modern alternatives rather than NOS.

Certainly, there are modern alternatives but likely not with the same dimensions so would probably need to be fitted externally.

Anyone know the capacitance in particular?

Sorry for the delay:

As far as the OEM physical sizes, I checked out an old OEM Ducati capacitor:

Nominal diameter: 13 mm
Nominal overall metal body height: 35 mm
Nominal protruding metal body from mounting face: 24 mm