by La chevre » Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:42 pm
Yes ,I had a similar problem. I didn't notice this initially until the anti dive unit turned into my wheel,fortunately when i had been removing the scoot from my vehicle after a dyno. Think the scoot moved whilst in transport and the anti-dive was pushed,dislodged into the wheel. I Took the clamp off the forks and did what Rimini advised,reading the notes carefully this time,their notes are very thorough and worth following! I simply and carefully ran the clamp both sides over the dremmel disc keeping the surfaces flat. I Didnt take much off but it was enough for the clamp to grip firmly on re torqueing also using thread lock, as Rimini advise.
I now also carry a 3mm packer in my pocket to test clearance between wheel and anti dive after a heavy bump or just intermittently to check the anti dive isn't turning into the wheel after use(3mm is the clearance i have this may differ).I am surprised there isn't some form of locking device on the clamp and fork to prevent this in the event of the clamp becoming loose.
Had a similar problem with the hydraulic handle bar unit this also wouldn't clamp tight on the handle bar.Twisting the throttle on the way to Warmwell i thought i had petrol starvation however then noticed, after a bit, that the whole handle bar arrangement was moving. I had to tape the hydraulic light switch arrangement as a temporary measure to the headset! Linnishing the clamp again in the same way,only fractionally almost just removing the powder coating resolved this problem and allowed the cap head bolts to tighten on the clamp/handle bar,no problems since.
So linnish is the way to go as Rimini advise in my experience, remember the clamp has flat sides this is what you are fettling not the inner circumference of the fork clamp.
Remember if its shiny and cost a lot of money that still dont mean it fits!
Hope this helps.
Bonne chance La Chevre