LCGB Forums

Should there be some sort of gasket on the carb stub, where it attaches with the clamp onto the inlet pipe?
There doesn't seem to be room for one, but it is just metal to metal, and my MA19B4 carb can still rotate, even with the clamp bolt done up really tightly.
I have already sheared one bolt trying to get the carb rigidly mounted.
Any suggestions please?

There is a sleeve that fits in the carb. Looks like this:

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellort ... vhbz-25mm/

Finding the correct size can be difficult. I made my own.

Thanks John.
I have an SH1/20 and two SH1/18 carburettor bodies, which all have a sleeve inside the stub, which is why I asked the question. None of them are easy to remove, so I'm not sure why my MA14B4 carb doesn't have one.
Thanks for the link. I will follow up on that, and email Eurocarb for advice on the correct one.
Alan

The D and LD carbs all bolt directly to the manifold without a sleeve. The bad news is that if the carb is still loose with the clamp bolt fully tightened, there is wear to the stub on the manifold or within the mounting on the carburettor. The gap is probably too small for a plastic sleeve, so cutting a thin collar from shim steel or alloy might be an option. Coke can anyone?

Thanks Steve.
Eurocarb had no suitable sleeves, so I tried very thin gasket paper, but this did not work either as there was too little room for it.
It seemed the alloy stub of the carb had previously been overtightened, and trying to prise the fingers back open in order to get a sleeve in looked as if it might fracture the old and fragile-looking alloy.
I decided to buy a new bolt, which proved a lot stronger than the two old ones I had. It tightened the joint much more easily, and the carb is now securely held on the inlet pipe without any sleeve.
Many thanks for your help.

Paper is too thick. Use brass shim stock. It comes in sizes down to 0.002” thick.

Definitely do NOT try to spread open the carb flange. You’re 100% right. They easily crack.