LCGB Forums

I love these project posts. I envy your (and others) engineering skills.

I did read the story of the nipple getting pulled off on a front break a few years back. Thankfully no one was hurt if I remember correctly

My assumption was the nipple end was not made up correctly, with a critical step missed.

IMHO one of these tools should be used prior to soldering to prevent the cable and cable nipple becoming detached within sharp breaking

https://www.venhill.co.uk/tools/compact-tools/cable-inner-wire-bird-caging-tool-vt13.html

Yes, having watched the video, that makes perfect sense. The cost of the tool probably puts me off buying it given that I don’t fabricate many cables.

I do use Venhill’s small brass ends to solder ends on, say, the ends of throttle cables at the slide. But they are not subjected to the force applied to a brake.

Not cheap is it, I don’t own one either
I only make the odd choke cable though.

Storkfoot wrote:

....Then moved on to the headset. I tried to fit the gear change (expensive one from a well known Italian make). That didn’t go well. The handle part is out of plane with the housing part so when you twist it, one side grinds in to the handlebar. That will be going back.

The dealer initially said that it must be my handlebars that were skewif. However, after a video or two were swapped, they agreed that I did have a faulty part. Now swapped.

Storkfoot wrote:

Storkfoot wrote:

....Then moved on to the headset. I tried to fit the gear change (expensive one from a well known Italian make). That didn’t go well. The handle part is out of plane with the housing part so when you twist it, one side grinds in to the handlebar. That will be going back.

The dealer initially said that it must be my handlebars that were skewif. However, after a video or two were swapped, they agreed that I did have a faulty part. Now swapped.

I fitted a brand new one (no idea of source) last year and it was in line but very stiff and wouldn't sit fully home. 15 minutes working it round with some grinding paste and it was perfect. I know yours was out of plane, I just mean on this new new one, might be worth a few minutes if it isn't to your liking.

By the way, I couldn't help noticing your cable ties. Martin Cook gave me a tip to leave them off as far as possible, especially on the clutch. What a difference it makes. Bit of a shame as I like the originality and general tidiness of them, but I only use them on wiring loom now. Everything else is just restrained by bodywork.

I didn’t think of grinding paste. Good shout. I think it is okay but if it does need tweaking, I’ll give that a go.

Fair point about the cables. The clutch feels really good, a genuine two finger job. The throttle has a few too many twists and turns at the moment.

On the plus side, it has just burst into life with the lights and horn working. Given that it was a Vape ignition I hadn’t wired before, married to an old MB loom that has a couple of extra wires, I was not sure I had it wired correctly

The neighbours now remember how noisy the old MB/BGM Clubman is

Now to strobe the timing and tidy up the wiring.

Storkfoot wrote:

dickie wrote:
I've done 2 reverse pull drums. Both were very effective and I still run one now. The first one I did used a gp cam and while it stopped well, it came on so suddenly that I was scared to touch the lever! So I put it back to standard.

I'm not certain that it was the different cam that caused this, but it's all i can think of.

Just a tip in case you find the same issue.

Cheers. I too ran one on another scooter fitted with this engine. I have spent some time fettling the shoes to try and ensure they both engage at the same time. I shall consider what you say about the GP cam if it is fierce

Have you seen this, Steve Richards on Youtube (The Steel Weazle) 3 videos on i,proving the fron brake. This the first one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK5No_wcur8

Yes, mate. I saw this months ago before I built the front hub. I acted upon quite a few of his recommendations

Storkfoot wrote:Yes, mate. I saw this months ago before I built the front hub. I acted upon quite a few of his recommendations

I note he also mentions locking the front wheel and he has reverse pull too....just saying

coaster wrote:

Storkfoot wrote:Yes, mate. I saw this months ago before I built the front hub. I acted upon quite a few of his recommendations

I note he also mentions locking the front wheel and he has reverse pull too....just saying

As you know, mate, I went all the way to Adria and back with my last reverse pull drum. It was good and I dare say that it was tested in the heat on those autostradas.

I wouldn’t put one on a 20 bhp scooter, but on this scooter I have every confidence it’ll be fine. I am not one to ignore basic maintenance so it’ll be checked every few thousand miles, or so.

If you watch Steelweasel’s three videos on the front brake, I chamfered the cam slightly, cut the shoes back to ensure they engaged the drum at the same time (they were new shoes too but definitely needed doing) and cut grooves in the shoes themselves to facilitate getting rid of brake dust.



I did get a chance to strobe the static Vape and, yes, it did need altering by some degrees to get it to 17 degrees. I would make the observation that even in bright sunlight my lights are bright The last time I had lights this bright was a standard electronic Lynx 200.

Ps. The lights aren’t on in that pic

I'm sorely tempted by the Vape setup myself

I always feel a sense of achievement when the headset top goes on

Storkfoot wrote:I always feel a sense of achievement when the headset top goes on

And then when you start it, you find out you've wired it up wrong, got the gear cables back to front and forgotten to attach the speedo cable!

I sense you speak from some considerable experience

I am still amazed that I wired this up right first time but the highlight has got to be the headset fitting. The best I have ever had and it wasn’t a matched pair

Next up is trying to make my own filter from a sheet of filter foam and a borrowed hot glue gun.

I doubt it’ll win any design awards but I am confident it’ll work well in the space between the toolbox and tank.

Nice work Paul. Paint Ram Air on it and start selling them for £50. Job done.

Knowledge wrote:Nice work Paul. Paint Ram Air on it and start selling them for £50. Job done.

As it was Warkton T’s idea, I’d have to cut a royalties deal with him

Storkfoot wrote:I doubt it’ll win any design awards but I am confident it’ll work well in the space between the toolbox and tank.

That looks very swish!

BTW. I run mine 'dry' though i did try one oiled up. The performance was dire but it washed clean enough to be used again. Mind you, I had to wait until the next bath night.....