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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2021 10:27 pm
by dickie
Those dimensions are correct. I found another one and remembered a complete hub I had stashed as well. I was convinced the tube was a nice sliding fit, but it's rattly as he'll.

So hub is finished now.

Just a tip though. Don't put a bearing next to a biscuit in case you abent-mindedly pick up the bearing and try to eat it. It was an unpleasant surprise. Thankfully I realised the moment it touched my lips rather than trying to chew it.

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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 3:41 am
by vegansydney
dickie wrote:Headlamp reflector is goosed but I can't find an identical one. Does anyone know where I can find one? Are these type with notches normal? New to me, but I don't have much experience with series 2.


Original CEV 8050 reflectors are not that hard to find as they're not unique to Lambrettas and were used on Ducatis (and possibly other Italian marques). I've got several NOS 8050 reflectors in original boxes and a few near immaculate used ones here that I've picked up for under €30 a piece. If you were closer I'd sell you one. Don't pay stupid money for them.

I'm no expert, and hopefully an adult will be along shortly, but I know there are several versions--all interchangeable--all with different ways of mounting the headlight rim. The most common ones appear to be the ones with the plain edge, but I've also seen ones with 6 slots the outer lip for securing the rim. Going by the logo, yours looks to be an early one.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2021 7:17 pm
by dickie
Thanks Sydney. I've ordered a casa one which looks the same apart from the notches. I'm going to try to cut them in myself, but may well end up with just a knackered reflector. We'll see......

It would have been nice to keep the original and get it rechromed but at £100 versus £30, it seemed silly. I even thought about keeping the inner tubes as they appeared perfect but as it's been off the road since 76, it may have been even stupider!

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2021 11:51 am
by hullygully
dickie wrote:Those dimensions are correct. I found another one and remembered a complete hub I had stashed as well. I was convinced the tube was a nice sliding fit, but it's rattly as he'll.

So hub is finished now.

Just a tip though. Don't put a bearing next to a biscuit in case you abent-mindedly pick up the bearing and try to eat it. It was an unpleasant surprise. Thankfully I realised the moment it touched my lips rather than trying to chew it.

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ginger?

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2022 5:36 pm
by dickie
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Just back on this after Christmas then having to work away for 2 months.

Anyway, I've stripped and cleaned the headset. Just started putting it back together when I noticed that the horn button is snapped off. Obviously a new one is easy but I'd rather not; it would be much nicer if I could just strip a new one for parts, but this is riveted togetehr, so I'm not sure how easy that is to do. Has anyone ever stripped one of these?

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2022 6:13 pm
by dickie
It's all just about stripping and cleaning really. Any parts that don't perform their function will be replaced but otherwise I'm keeping totally original; this means most rubber parts plus a few things like fork springs.

Took the legshields etc off for a deep clean. 60 years of Italian dust and grime takes some shifting even with muc-off.
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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2022 7:45 pm
by Storkfoot
Looks good. Are you keeping the loom?

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:43 am
by dickie
Storkfoot wrote:Looks good. Are you keeping the loom?

Yes, keeping the loom. I did expect to have to replace it, but all the terminations seem in good condition. The outer grey sleeving is brittle in some places but the insulation all seems good. I may end up regretting this though. :?

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2022 12:11 pm
by Storkfoot
dickie wrote:
Storkfoot wrote:Looks good. Are you keeping the loom?

Yes, keeping the loom. I did expect to have to replace it, but all the terminations seem in good condition. The outer grey sleeving is brittle in some places but the insulation all seems good. I may end up regretting this though. :?


I haven’t yet regretted reusing the one on my ‘62 TV but my outer wasn’t brittle at all and the connections were all very good.

Good luck and keep us posted on progress :)

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2022 1:28 pm
by Warkton Tornado No.1
dickie wrote:
Storkfoot wrote:Looks good. Are you keeping the loom?

Yes, keeping the loom. I did expect to have to replace it, but all the terminations seem in good condition. The outer grey sleeving is brittle in some places but the insulation all seems good. I may end up regretting this though. :?


Amazing quality of OEM electrical components IMHO, brake light switch excepted :lol:

OEM stators over 50 years old look box fresh compared to the sh1te that many of us seem to prefer to fit in their place in the name of reliability...... :roll:

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:21 am
by dickie
Storkfoot wrote:
I haven’t yet regretted reusing the one on my ‘62 TV but my outer wasn’t brittle at all and the connections were all very good.

Good luck and keep us posted on progress :)


Thanks. That's comforting. Actually the only brittle.section was the grey sleeve on the sub-harness for the light switch. So far, i haven't found any more. I hope I can save that switch, but it has the look of something that won't go well if I take it apart. Might as well have a go though as it's effectively scrap as it is.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2022 10:18 pm
by dickie
The horn button was snapped on the light switch. As with everything else, I didn't want to replace it, I'd rather repair it.

So, I bought a cheap Indian one so that I could swap the button for my original switch. This was a bit of a gamble as I didn't know whether I could strip and rebuild one or not.

You need to remove the e-clip from the back, then the rotary switch can be lifted out and it's easy to strip after that.


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The switch is held in place by a solid rivet so I had to dremmel the rivet out of the old one and same with the new one.

A problem was that the indian button is slightly bigger that the original button, so I had to open up the hole. I used a 9.5mm drill and a little filing.
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The right one is the indian one and shows how much bigger the hole is.

I've never used solid rivets before, but I got some 2mm x 3mm aluminium ones and just gently peened them over. It was much easier than I feared.

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Of course, it was.tempting to use the indian ebay switch but it just didn't look right, AND it's a bit of a quest now to use as much original as possible.

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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2022 4:46 pm
by vegansydney
Impressive work! I love seeing original pieces saved. Please keep the updates coming.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2022 7:51 pm
by dickie
The headlight was good apart from the reflector.
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I toyed with the idea of getting it replated but it was going to cost about £120.

I just didn't want to cover it in foil tape as it wouldn't do its job properly.

So the next option is buy a copy. But I couldn't find one. The original has notches all round but none of the ones I could find had these.

You can see here that it doesn't work with this rim and lens;
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So I cut slots an it's a great fit. New rubber seal and that would have been it but I've lost the effing clip for the bulbholder :roll:
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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2022 8:22 pm
by dickie
I've been off this for a while due to working overseas, couldn't be arsed and a spell in hospital after throwing myself off my push bike.

So, I've lost track of what I've been up to, to some extent.

I thought I'd put all the screws from the horncast in one pot, but there seem to be 2 missing. However, I'm not 100% on what type goes where. Should there be a cup washer and slotted screw for both these positions at top and bottom of the horncast?

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Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 7:39 pm
by dickie
Sadly, when i pulled the badge out the horncast, the clip part on the back snapped. Image
So I levered the infills out of a new one I had and swapped the ones from my original one.
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Looks OK I reckon. I'm sad that it's not completely original but it's close enough.
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The speedo glass was almost totally opaque. So with the help of some t-cut, it's much better now. Still yellow, but you can see it properly.
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That's the front end fully stripped and rebuilt, so now I need to tidy the bench up and rebuild the motor.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:10 pm
by gaz_powell
Nice job as always Rich

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 10:05 pm
by dickie
Thanks gaz.

I'm still torn about what to do with the motor. There's a real attraction in building it completely standard as the good lord intended, but I can't help feeling I won't enjoy riding it. I've got everything I need to build an rt210 motor which I could swap over but then I don't know what the point of building a standard motor is if it's just sitting under the bench.....decisions, decisions.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 5:06 am
by shane BBoys
Dickie.
you know that if you stay standard you will regret and eventually change it!

RT RT RT

Mucho.

Re: Series 2 survivor

PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 7:23 pm
by dickie
shane BBoys wrote:Dickie.
you know that if you stay standard you will regret and eventually change it!

RT RT RT

Mucho.

Shane, you're 100% correct.

So I'll build it standard then build a better version as I like building motors. So why not build twice? :D