LCGB Forums

Yep! Well done for spotting that!, Handlebar choke... The only thing Iv yet to do!, got to make a bracket coming off of the throttle/ switch housing....

Dimitrios_231 wrote:What brand is the kick start shaft piston?
I bought 3 Casa recently...

Yes Dimitrios just the piston.., can't remember where I brought it from now!!

MB

Thanks,
the choke lever will look cool on the handlebars
I will use one on the bridge on the next lammy.

Nobby wrote:Changed the font of the front number plate letters to... Which was bugging me!

Looking good. That number plate font is much better.

Did you manage to sort out the brake light switch?

Nice to see that you've had time to give the grass got a trim too...

dave411 wrote:MB

Nar....it was either scooter restos, scootopia or Camb lamb!.... Can't remember which one

Dimitrios_231 wrote:Thanks,
the choke lever will look cool on the handlebars
I will use one on the bridge on the next lammy.

It's fooked op that the choke works the opposite way right isn't it?!!, so you have to have the choke lever pulled fully on to have choke off..... And let the lever off to put the choke on!

Chadley wrote:

Nobby wrote:Changed the font of the front number plate letters to... Which was bugging me!

Looking good. That number plate font is much better.

Did you manage to sort out the brake light switch?

Nice to see that you've had time to give the grass got a trim too...

Cheeky!! ,
I had to cut and weld switch up !! Because I forgot to order one in time !!

I've had my flywheel remagnatised and everything works but the lights are dim as fook!! Earths seem fine...Any tips anyone??

Try another stator?

Nobby wrote:It's fooked op that the choke works the opposite way right isn't it?!!, so you have to have the choke lever pulled fully on to have choke off..... And let the lever off to put the choke on!

Υes this is how it works,in reality it is an air valve inside the slide,with the valve fully open the engine runs normal,with closed valve less air leads to a richer mixture,
it is very useful if the jetting is lean and you can listen/feel the piston rings before a seizure,
remember to let the lever off trying to save the situation

If the flywheel is remagnetised and the lights are still very dim,the easiest and cheaper way is to try smaller wattage lamps.

Nobby wrote:

dickie wrote:

Nobby wrote:

Reverse pull... No dampers..... Progressive springs...

I'm about to convert my drum to reverse pull (it's effing terrifying the way it is). Where did you get that cable guide; it looks a lot more 'period' than the anodised ones I can find.

Cambridge lambretta or all styles do them I think

Have to excuse my ignorance but how do you put together a reverse pull drum set-up , been looking at the picture but can't quite figure out where the cable runs through and how it all goes together? Paul

I've had my flywheel remagnatised and everything works but the lights are dim as fook!! Earths seem fine...Any tips anyone??

My 6V AC lights are pretty dim at tick over. What's it like at higher rpm? Should be much better and okay for MOT purposes.

Are you running a standard 6V 25/25W incandescent headlamp bulb with a 6V 5W tail lamp and 12V 3W for the speedo? If you're using a higher wattage headlamp such as a 35/35W, it may actually be dimmer at low revs.

I notice that you have a UK DC battery type regulator/rectifier and stator but then seem to have an AC chassis loom with no battery. Shouldn't affect headlamp but brake light is likely to be dimmer at low rpm as it will be fed solely from stator rather than from DC battery.

Scooterslag wrote:

Nobby wrote:

Nobby wrote:

Reverse pull... No dampers..... Progressive springs...








Cambridge lambretta or all styles do them I think

Have to excuse my ignorance but how do you put together a reverse pull drum set-up , been looking at the picture but can't quite figure out where the cable runs

It's pretty much as it says on the tin Paul!.... Inner and outer are reversed, all you really need is one cable adjuster and a 10mm nut!...cut the outer down to size and have it going into the brake arm with an adjuster and connect the inner and original adjuster to where the outer usually goes (with nut instead of brass adjustment disc). When you pull the lever the outer cable pushes the brake arm instead of the inner pulling it doyagitmi?

Chadley wrote:

I've had my flywheel remagnatised and everything works but the lights are dim as fook!! Earths seem fine...Any tips anyone??

My 6V AC lights are pretty dim at tick over. What's it like at higher rpm? Should be much better and okay for MOT purposes.

Are you running a standard 6V 25/25W incandescent headlamp bulb with a 6V 5W tail lamp and 12V 3W for the speedo? If you're using a higher wattage headlamp such as a 35/35W, it may actually be dimmer at low revs.

I notice that you have a UK DC battery type regulator/rectifier and stator but then seem to have an AC chassis loom with no battery. Shouldn't affect headlamp but brake light is likely to be dimmer at low rpm as it will be fed solely from stator rather than from DC battery.

I think it is an battery loom, the brake light and mains aren't a prob really it's the rear light and the side light which are like little glows..... Now I'm writing this in thinking how is one ok and not the other and maybe there's a dry connection!..... Will put a multi meter on um today....

Tidy.

Nobby interesting switches on the 64 pacemaker . would you say they are original?

Woop woop!! ... Back on the road!

Gt150??!

Great looking scooter, enjoy.