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Inspired by all the custom scoots at Bridlington and my own successes in the amateur photography world (one day, the penny will drop as to how to get iphone pics the right way up), I thought I'd share where I'm at now




Basically, having managed to find time to get the front strut welded, 20 mins with the Rust Remover, 10 mins spraying ACF50 everywhere and then whack the engine in, this is where I'm at

Looking good mate, that T5 money is being well spent! Cheers john.

Hi Paul.
Looking good mate. What rear shock have you fitted ?

Struggling to find the time to make any progress at present but that should change in a few weeks, I hope.

The shock is a Gaz one. I tried it on my GP but didn't like it, the spring is too weak and there's only a very limited amount of preload you can get on it. If I hadn't scratched it trying to get more pre load, I'd have sent it back.

I've managed to find time to cable it up. Now need to get a few welds sorted on leggies and runner boards before extensive renovation with ACF50



Pleasingly, I've also managed to buy back my old twin tank conversion which will be needed come the journey to Adria next year. Again, it is currently in the garage being treated to some dabs of hammerite. I shall lavish a bit more care to cleaning out the insides though !

Now got forks and headset on but noticed that there is play in the gearchange, just old age really.

This is a handy chuck that I have had for years - it centralises the rod whilst the rod and handle are welded together which is the best way to eliminate the play.

Storkfoot wrote:Struggling to find the time to make any progress at present but that should change in a few weeks, I hope.

The shock is a Gaz one. I tried it on my GP but didn't like it, the spring is too weak and there's only a very limited amount of preload you can get on it. If I hadn't scratched it trying to get more pre load, I'd have sent it back.

Does the shock disassemble? It might take a heavier spring, like the ones used on the R1 conversions. Just an idea for later....

Keep the info coming Paul. Loving your work, man

Knowledge wrote:

Storkfoot wrote:Struggling to find the time to make any progress at present but that should change in a few weeks, I hope.

The shock is a Gaz one. I tried it on my GP but didn't like it, the spring is too weak and there's only a very limited amount of preload you can get on it. If I hadn't scratched it trying to get more pre load, I'd have sent it back.

Does the shock disassemble? It might take a heavier spring, like the ones used on the R1 conversions. Just an idea for later....

Keep the info coming Paul. Loving your work, man

Thanks, Martin. That thought about the spring occurred to me but I'll leave messing with it until I have it on the road. I do have a spring compressor so I suspect I would be able to get it apart. We'll see

Anyone who has ever fitted a twin tank conversion into a frame will know that this is not as easy at it first appears, especially when the connecting tubes are not level, as in this case.

I'd like to say this is all sorted know. I'd like to say that but I can't as I have the usual issue of the tap interferring with the mount. On a normal tank that is quite easy to fix, not so with this set up as I'll probably need to loosen everything off, including the connecting pipes before I can move it sufficiently. Anyway, I have decided to order a CamLam rear exit tap before I tackle that job.



The other thing that has just occurred to me looking at the picture, the tank is from a Spanish Series 2. It's now in a Series 3. Will it be too wide

I think the tanks are the same.

Regarding aligning your fuel tap, I had bother with mine so used an adjustable extension piece from mb which worked great. It adds another link into the mechanism so miles it a bit sloppier but I'd still use again.

Will it be too wide? Reach for a panel Paul. It will be a moment of truth.

Knowledge wrote:Will it be too wide? Reach for a panel Paul. It will be a moment of truth.

I did. It's fine

I had hoped that merely sticking on a rear exit fuel tap would sort the clearance issues. It didn't but after another hour or so of moving the whole tank set up back a bit and filing the bottom of the fuel tap itself, it is now clear.



Setting up the reverse pull drum brake was a lot more straightforward although it remains to be seen whether it works okay:

Paul, be very cautious using reverse pull on drum brakes. I have heard of more than one person whom they have locked up on. Don't know why though.

Super

Yes, Roy, I have heard that too but I also know of such set ups that work well. I have new shoes in there and, if it transpires that the front hub isn't perfectly round, I do have a NOS on to try.

I managed to find an hour this morning to fettle with the cables and wiring but got distracted by the urgent need to change the oil on my Rally (this task is a lot quicker on a Lambretta even though a Vespa has less than half the amount of oil ! )




Anyway, by the time I'd sorted that, I came to the conclusion I didn't have the patience to figure the wiring out today so pushed it back in the garage.



I do really need to get a shift on if this is going to be on the road by Easter

PS. the red wheel rim is a temporary measure only

Looking good mate

Nice to see a project coming together

Thanks for your interest, gentlemen

I do have visions of people being totally underwhelmed by my efforts to get a reliable rally going scooter on the road for as little cash as possible. It's the antithesis of those "Scootering" featured scoots in which the owner has not built the engine, done any of the bodywork but may have assisted in putting it back together

But, that thought spurs me on to post random pics of scrubbed up paintwork even more!

Hopefully, I'll have the leggies, runners and gear change back from the welders next week and then, by the end of February, it may be nearly done

Hmm,thats a big may