LCGB Forums

Thanks davla and Xenia1

I cannot find gunk out here unfortunately but have got a spray on degreaser that apparently does the same thing. Another thing to bring back when I next drive back. I’m just siting for a flywheel puller to arrive and then I will try it out once the casing has been completely stripped. If that fails, then Rimini is a great option, although I must say I’d be pretty fearful about packing the whole casing up and trusting it to the post...

I can vouch for Rimini's work Rob, i didnt have my Tv1 cases done as they were n.o.s but previous to that i had a S1 125 casing done and even though im a fussy git the results were superb.
I can understand your reluctance to send the casings in the post but well wrapped in plenty of bubble wrap and using a small wooden packing case and it'll be fine..

Thanks very much for the info.

I’ve managed to get another couple of hours in today. The rear hub was seized and after little success yesterday I left it soaking in WD40. With tension from the extraction tool on it and a good application of heat all around I managed to free up the hub with some sturdy ‘bounces’ from a hammer on the extractor.

The mag housing was eaually tricky and took a good lot of effort to free up. I managed to get it out after lots of heat and wd40 over a day or so, the thread in one of the extraction threads was in pretty poor condition. Would it be acceptable to re tap it at 7mm thread now I’ve got the housing out? Or is there a better option?

m7 would be fine,

Well, I’ve scrubbed and scrubbed including what is the nearest thing I can find to gunk here in italy “industrial garage degreaser” and while it is significantly cleaner, it is still badly pock marked for about half the area of the chaincase with ugly dark patches. Are there any other tricks that I can try? Dean at Rimini can’t offer the acid dipping service at the moment as he is between providers.

RobTV175 wrote:Well, I’ve scrubbed and scrubbed including what is the nearest thing I can find to gunk here in italy “industrial garage degreaser” and while it is significantly cleaner, it is still badly pock marked for about half the area of the chaincase with ugly dark patches. Are there any other tricks that I can try? Dean at Rimini can’t offer the acid dipping service at the moment as he is between providers.

Rimini use Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) Its available cheaply as brick/mortar cleaner or industrial toilet cleaner.
You could try it in a bath/container big enough for immersion at a relatively weak solution of 10% . Obviously gloves and goggles with this stuff are a must..

Thanks very much. Not sure I’m that brave yet!

So I’ve stripped the case out and cleaned it all up. Now I’ve spotted a very fine crack from the base of the case where there is a chip out of the casting grille (looks like it has taken a whack going over an obstacle and the crack looks like it has worked its way around half the engine up to one stud and towards the mount. It is barely perceptible and you can’t feel it with your finger. I want to have it looked over and repaired if required before putting it back together.

I will be over in the uk and could bring the case for a cuople of weeks in June. Are there any recommendations of people in the south east (preferably near Heathrow area) where I can have an expert look at this and repair if required. Feel free to pm.

Many thanks

RobTV175 wrote:Well, I’ve scrubbed and scrubbed including what is the nearest thing I can find to gunk here in italy “industrial garage degreaser” and while it is significantly cleaner, it is still badly pock marked for about half the area of the chaincase with ugly dark patches. Are there any other tricks that I can try? Dean at Rimini can’t offer the acid dipping service at the moment as he is between providers.

John Haigh preferred sulphuric acid for his dipping service.


Seriously though, I use DEB Janitol Altrans:
https://www.debgroup.com/uk/products/janitol-altrans
Biodegradable, acidic metal cleaner specifically formulated to remove rust, oxidation and corrosion from most metals. Usual precautions advised.

Works well for me on engine casings, carbs etc but they must be free from oil/crud. No need to immerse the casing and I have obtained best results if applied and agitated vigorously with an old paint brush when it will foam. Several applications may be required and rise off with water. Said to be to be biodegradable and can be flushed down foul drains. Leaves a matt finish very much like the original, not shiny like in the Rimini pics. Expensive now but 5l lasts me ages.

Careful though, it can degrade or remove plating on gear swivel, brake arm etc, leaves steel dark grey and will make your concrete fizz if you spill it.