LCGB Forums

Looking cool so far.
What are you thinking in terms of trick bits?

LateAgain wrote:Looking cool so far.
What are you thinking in terms of trick bits?

Um, budget constraints are gonna rule out £1200 front discs and things like that, I just can't justify it. For the engine I already have a Gori 200 kit and a old Cyclone ready to go in from when I was a little bit richer. So far all I've come up with that may be a little different is rear lighting. I'd like to keep the rear end clean, I can use a Series 1 rear light I already have or I was thinking of maybe incorporating something into the rear end of the long seat, to that end £15 bought me one of these, and although I'm a bit loathed to cut into such a nice seat and it is a bit wide, it just might do:

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The front end in getting better, 'welded' some standoffs on for the mudguard tabs. Lots of tidying up to do yet.



And drilled and tapped for top fixings. The mudguard sits a little cock-eyed at the top, so will probably trim off where the traditional clamp sits to tidy it up.



The LD mudguard is narrow, so dampers are thin and my first positioning of upper damper brackets was too wide and the nut made a lovely little dent in the mudguard that will need flattening out now.



Also at the fork link end the dampers will need to sit closer in as they are currently at a jaunty angle, further out at the bottom than at the top. I have a set of links on my Series 3 I can swap out which may be more suitable.

Nice to see your project evolving. I'm a 'turncoat' because I never envisaged liking a turning mudguard Lambretta, let alone anything earlier than SIII....

Regarding the bottom damper links, I've modified links before by tapping the M7 holes with an M6 Helicoil (slightly larger than M7 but same pitch) then inserting an M6 Helicoil.

Then, you simply use a (standard High Tensile) M6 SCHS (Socket Cap Head Screw) with a spacer between the damper & the link to 'tune' the required distance. (It's a very useful modification when racing as wheel changes are much easier as the damper can be quickly swung out of the way by releasing one M6 screw to allow good access to the axle nut)

Hopefully you know somebody with Helicoiling kit, but if you don't, Recoil do inexpensive kits which might be cheaper than return P & P to me, which I'd do the modification for free.

I hope that helps.

What are you talking about Mark. You love my S2

Watfordwhite wrote:What are you talking about Mark. You love my S2

I'm getting soft in my (not very!) old age Martin!

Even the re-engineered J ranges are starting to float my boat......

Even the re-engineered J ranges are starting to float my boat...... [/quote]

Quick but small update.

Thanks for the tip on the links Mark, I have a set now ready for rethreading which should sort out the damper issue, fingers crossed.

Been looking at the rear light and had a little experiment with a tail/stop led light:



Not sure if it is what I'll go for in the end but worth a try I thought.



Also been playing around casting some pewter into a horncast badge, this is the first effort which shows it can be done but the mould needs to be better quality, this one was made with leftover exhaust gasket silicone.



The result, a bit shit, but a second attempt with a better mould is in the pipeline.



The pewter can been melted again and recast, it's very easy, a blowtorch and stainless steel ladle is all you need as it melts at a very low point.

There's nothing there.

How about now? Never get the hang of posting pictures.

No

Pictures fixed?

New better mould, casting later this morning.

Yes

Very nearly the desired outcome.

That badge is quality

Belter.......!

Seven months! Jeez, where did that go!

Been doing a bit. Found a frame problem.



Fixing



Fixed



Fork link alteration to squeeze dampers into mudguard. Nothing seems to foul in operation, but if anyone can see a problem with this, then please shout out.





Also, tried a bit of rattle can painting, and quite pleased with the results, only done the small parts and started building up the headset, chipping paint wherever I go



After all the different tail lights I tried, have ended up with a S1 type, still the nicest shape in my opinion.

bolzenanker wrote:Seven months! Jeez, where did that go!


Fork link alteration to squeeze dampers into mudguard. Nothing seems to foul in operation, but if anyone can see a problem with this, then please shout out.

In principle, that should work, but you would be better to try & source/make better lower damper mount tubes & washers long term, so that the rubber element is better enclosed & make it look as nice as the rest of the project

However, I hope you don't mind me saying, but the washers you have on the axle MUST be of the OEM type which are specific to fit the link recess. If my memory serves, they are 22 mm diameter & will retain the axle in situ even if the nuts were to come loose. (I remember getting a race bike scrutineered by PJ many years ago & getting sent packing over that, but he was absolutely right...... )

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

bolzenanker wrote:Seven months! Jeez, where did that go!


Fork link alteration to squeeze dampers into mudguard. Nothing seems to foul in operation, but if anyone can see a problem with this, then please shout out.

In principle, that should work, but you would be better to try & source/make better lower damper mount tubes & washers long term, so that the rubber element is better enclosed & make it look as nice as the rest of the project

However, I hope you don't mind me saying, but the washers you have on the axle MUST be of the OEM type which are specific to fit the link recess. If my memory serves, they are 22 mm diameter & will retain the axle in situ even if the nuts were to come loose. (I remember getting a race bike scrutineered by PJ many years ago & getting sent packing over that, but he was absolutely right...... )

Thanks for looking it over WT1, I value your input very much. I'll look into tidying up the whole damper arrangement in due course and don't worry about the washer, it was just slung on for mocking up, proper OEM washers will be used when complete.