LCGB Forums

Any ideas as to why this might be?

https://imgur.com/gallery/qlMiCvY

Thought I’d ask here to see if anyone has any ideas I may have not thought about. Checked around the frame nothing obvious. I have recently changed onto anlass tournee & a lad I was on a trip with last week had them on & his rear wheel looked a bit over to the LHS but not as bad as mine.

Opinions welcome here before I strip the cnut!

My GP has been on a jig and straightened. I have also just changed engine mounts. It’s still about a centimetre out to the left. I see other Lambretta that are the same.

Are you using SIP tubeless rims?

Scoot RS minus the suicide valves.

Engine mount gone???

I jacked it’s arse in the air and it had a lot of play in the mounts. I’ll order a set up & see where I am.

To be continued...

The canopy maybe out, as long as the geometry of the frame tube/wheel base/engine etc is in line it should be fine,

I have had my series 3 for the past 40 odd years, during which the engine mounts have been replaced several times, the back wheel has always been out of alignment in relation to the frame as pictured, although perhaps not quite so noticeable.
My machine handles quite well and the tyres are showing no abnormal wear, so I have not worried about it, just fitted a mud flap so it is not obvious !!!

Silent blocks changed sitting a lot better. Chucked one of them casa flatside engine bolts in & my inlet was right up against the frame, was thinking I put in down side up! Thing can turn as you nip the bolt up! Anyhoo all sorted now!

Psychedelicropcircle wrote:Silent blocks changed sitting a lot better. Chucked one of them casa flatside engine bolts in & my inlet was right up against the frame, was thinking I put in down side up! Thing can turn as you nip the bolt up! Anyhoo all sorted now!

? Turning the nut while holding the bolt head,the cones etc spun round.Is that what you're saying?How could that be?

I didn’t hold the bolt first time round. Probably the best idea is to turn the fixed end till you have maximum clearance then hold in place whilst you nip up the nut.

i get what you mean, the main bar turned and so did the cones, thus moving the manifold closer to the frame

holty wrote:i get what you mean, the main bar turned and so did the cones, thus moving the manifold closer to the frame

That’s it holty.

Psychedelicropcircle wrote:I didn’t hold the bolt first time round. Probably the best idea is to turn the fixed end till you have maximum clearance then hold in place whilst you nip up the nut.

Ah with you now yes.