LCGB Forums

Storkfoot wrote:

rossclark wrote:Check the spring and the ramps on the front sprocket too.

Good call. I have had this a couple of times. I notice that Casa Performance have now produced a 10% uprated front sprocket spring too.

As it's in a fetching shade of red I'll give it a go, now had it been in blue that would have been a different story...

So who stocks these items in the UK please?

I'm continuing to be flumoxed, different height springs from different models have been alluded to, feck knows... different spring tensions by different (random...) manufacturers probably have a part to play also, all I know is that the springs that have been through my hands in this yet to be properly understood ongoing saga go in the probably to be recycled bin...

Torbay Lambretta stock them Andy

Ta Shane! Was talking to Mike but not paying for the bits (that came from other sources)... Not being biased but Torbay Lambretta have been above & beyond In the speed, reliability & general treating you like a person rather than a 'consumer'.

That place oop norf, that I'd been using since '83, has meanwhile so not been keeping up...

Goodbye...

Ordered 15.30 on Tues, received the next day - now that's the sort of service we deserve... Can't wait til Sat, will the uprated spring be the solution...?!

No... Gettng bored... Same issues, but in a less extreme manifestation. I'm not charging, but...

So... Process of elimination, as alluded to earlier, cheers chaps!, stronger clutch springs are the next (&final!) attempt to sort this. Chiselspeed springs have been ordered...

Keep up the Stirling effort
Agree on Torbay Lambretta, great service although he was let down by DPD in picking my parts up, luckily I wasn’t in any great rush for them

Chisel Speed springs here & on the kitchen table, not the engine mind, make's a change Tomorrow will tell...

Well an epic fail (again) later... While pulling the engine apart I became aware of an issue I'd not noticed previously, probably due the small amount of resistance not being felt while holding the chaincase side in place while tightening it up. So... as I was loosening off the allen bolts (look good, but stopped using them decades ago) I noticed that the sidecasing was lifting off by itself. Hmmm very wrong! Once the casing was off it was immediately obvious that the clutch pressure plate had been way too close to the brass bush, the perfectly circular gouge being the give away, & to be honest mildly manifested during kickover. Again, & this is not an excuse, as I hadn't been ordering & buying the parts just trusting in them I was again a tad flumoxed while getting closer to another 'F' word, this scenario was just beyond comprehension. A phone call to Jerome @ Readspeed (top lad with great business sense, the Chiselspeed springs don't fit in the red devil clutch recess) later, an extra clutch & friction plate & a new set of springs ordered (4 of the springs were bent, photo possibly to follow, & if so YES I did ping the springs into place with a screwdriver!). I'd like to think that this saga is on the home straight with one last post due to say that all is happyness & light, hope I've not just knackered that The way I understand it is that the extra plate (with trimmed ears) will pull the clutch pressure plate deeper into the clutch basket meaning that it will no longer be rubbing on the bronze bush thereby eliminating clutch slip... To be continued...

I am in the habit of checking the gauge, number of turns in the spring & the fully compressed length as a set using a vice.

It's amazing the variation, but rule of thumb is the thicker the gauge, the stronger the spring. Forget about length having any affect. What you need is the shortest coilbound length. As I have dozens of sets available, from various sources (that I cannot say whose is whose ) & I most recently fitted a CamLam six plate in a standard clutch component set-up using the shortest coilbound strong springs that I had to hand, & the clutch was perfect.

Lastly, in case you don't know, check that the springs don't get coilbound by operating the lever with a tight cable. Better still, with compressor still in place, count how many turns it takes to fully compress the clutch (coilbound) & measure the tool pitch. That will give you an accurate figure for the running clearance, important for separation to eliminate drag.

Posted for Andy, I'm sure he'll be along to explain...

Zebedee ( Magic R’bout) been using them springs

Ta Mark, as always! Who knows 1 day I may even work out how to sort it by myself, I'm not holding my breath mind... More parts hopefully turning up tomorrow

Steady on there mate

So... Is everyone sitting comfortably...? (PFFF ) Spent 20 mins filing, slowly & carefully (!) on the extra plate (between the kitchen vice & the headtorch in garage) is this almost there? Tomorrow will finally tell, but not too early mind

F*I*X*E*D!!!!!!

Did a tanksworth of serious blatting this beautifully sunny afternoon, so serious that I went so far as to dust down my leather m.sickle trousers. My face aches from grinning manically & I won't need to eat for the rest of the weekend due to the volume of flies ingested, what a blast...

Dyno run & set up booked in @ Shiny Red Tuning in Stroud next Sat

At last!! Well done for not giving in Andy

For our interest & information, what were the issues that you had to resolve please?

How long you got...? Might just make a JS filler item out of this 'experience'... Be good to get more peeps on OUR forum sharing the love & knowledge...

PS

It'll only be a cynical & pathetic attempt to get 'Lambretta the Movie, an irreverent look at the worlds finest motorscooter' (on You Tube, it'll make you smile!) up to 50k...