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nsaints wrote:Nice work on the airbox
I agree with what you're saying about warm air being inducted into the engine, and better to use cooler air. I may fit a larger neck airbox to the TV as a result of what I now know.
Regarding how hot it get's under the panels, when I bought the TV (incidentally it's a US import) it was a hot day in London. I caught the train down to Paddington, with a plan to ride it back to Oxfordshire. Being prepared I took a small 1 litre petrol can of fuel just incase. Met the owner and the TV at the prearranged place, exchanged monies and paperwork and I was the new owner. Some tools I bought along as well as the fuel all fitted inside the standard toolbox. And off I went - must have been a 30 degree day.
Nice ride out of central London, down the west way, dropped onto the A40 and back through high wycombe, oxford and home.
When I got back and opened the toolbox door I realised how close I was to a complete disaster. The heat from the day and the engine had expanded the fuel in the canister so much it was like a balloon! I almost couldn't get the canister out the toolbox through the opening it was so large. I shudder to think of the consequences if it had burst on the way home.
Moral of the story, never ever carry spare fuel in a standard lambretta toolbox...
Any photos of the airbox from Scooter Restorations , dimensions etc?
nsaints wrote:Recently taken two small block kitted scooters to see Al @ Diablo, and got some dyno results around airboxes which I thought would make an interesting post
First up my TV. RT195, standard crank, 25 PHBL, GP modified airbox with the internal baffle removed, BGM mk 4 exhaust
Dyno result below where Al took an as delivered base line (blue line) and 2nd run with the air filter hose removed, carb run open mouth, (red line)
I was surprised how restricted a standard SX air box was with the baffle removed!
Air box was then modified with a 12 mm drill, per the below
this then de-ristricted the airbox allowing more air, and releasing more performance. see graph below comparing to a GT kit
two weeks back I took my SX - Chris Sturgess fettled GT kit, 25 PHBL, scootopia clubman. I didn't want to pepper holes in a SX airbox so fitted a big bore airbox (from scooter resto')
I thought this would still need additional holes in the sides, but it didn't
Here's a graph comparing both RT and GT kits
Red line = GT186 (chris sturgess modified), 25mm PHBL, Scootopia Exhaust, big bore airbox
Blue Line - RT195, 25mm PHBL, BGM Mk4, Heavily modified GP airbox
I'll let you draw your own conclusions
edit:
in summary:
1, if you want to run an airbox for standard looks, whilst running a kit, don't expect much performance gain when just removing the internal baffle. you need to drill holes in the side of the airbox as well
2, the big bore air box performed better than expected, without the need for additional holes being drilled in the side
duncan1958 wrote:What rubber elbow do you use,I have bought the bigger type to fit on my 28mm PHBH for my RT 195 kitted engine.
Removing the internal baffle and the bridge in the air scoop.
BGM air filter
The rubber elbow has a tendency to collapse or pull in when opening up the throttle.
Not road tested yet as not completely finished the scooter.
dickie wrote:duncan1958 wrote:What rubber elbow do you use,I have bought the bigger type to fit on my 28mm PHBH for my RT 195 kitted engine.
Removing the internal baffle and the bridge in the air scoop.
BGM air filter
The rubber elbow has a tendency to collapse or pull in when opening up the throttle.
Not road tested yet as not completely finished the scooter.
Darrell Taylor uses a cut up silicon sealant tube inside the hose to keep it stiffer.
Gentlemen of a certain age need a little help sometimes.
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