Chain too tight?

[Danbretta]

Thanks for your offer that's very kind of you, I might well take you up on that should omitting the tensioner not solve the issue.
I did put the original lower guide on rather than the one in the photo, but yes I understand what you are saying regarding the inside radii lifting the upper tensioner.

Weather permitting (unfortunately the shed is too small to work in) I'll see if I can find time to take it apart again and try it with out the tensioner. I'd better order some more gaskets and brass nuts.

Funny you should mention about the impact driver, I actually treated myself to a nice DeWalt one last week (got a big DIY job going on at home and a bigger shed to build next year)

[Littlewheels]

I would say the chain is too short and it needs another link but you could as mentioned try it without the tensioner then modify the holes so that it applies less pressure. Either way you will have to remove that exhaust and prob again after 200miles to adjust.

[Danbretta]

Yes, I'll have to take another look inside and see what's going on. Maybe this weekend if I can force myself.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Now you have given in to any doubts & plan to look inside, it won't take long to do.

You could warm up the oil & drain it before the event, with a block beneath the LH stand foot to encourage it out. I always funnel the oil through a paint filter paper for a check of the debris, & dependent upon the oil degradation, you should be able to re-use it. I guess you still use ST90, so that will almost be a certainty due to the expense. BTW. The rapid discolouration of ST90 is "normal" compared to other transmission fluids some of us use, such as ATF......


As you have studs fitted to the crankcase & your DeWalt kit, you'll be done in no time

[Danbretta]

Yes hopefully this weekend I'll strip it down. I plan to reuse the ST90, it was fresh in there last week. Hopefully all goes well and I can get out for a spin....

[Danbretta]

Been longer than hoped for but pushed myself to get back on the chain again today. I've taken the tensioner off and lower chain guide. I've uploaded a vid showing the play on the chain now.

https://youtu.be/ciBTTIhw4Mc

Theres about 6mm up and down play halfway along the chain, not sure whether this is still too tight or if I'll get away with running it like this. Depending how it sounds when I get it started up again,
I'll try and get the exhaust on tomorrow unless advice says the chain is still too tight?

What gasket sealant do you guys use? I have been using hondabond but struggle getting the chaincase to pop off, anyone had an easier experience with a certain brand sealant?

[neily03]

I just use a bog standard cork gasket, no sealant needed.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

If you can now rotate the chainwheel whilst holding the clutch centre with the other hand & it doesn't feel 'graunchy' then I would say chain tension is alright. Don't worry that if the clutch centre is otherwise rotating with the chainwheel as the drag is inevitable & the chain will loosen up anyway via it's own wear & by bedding into the sprockets.

I never use any sealant with chaincase gaskets other than grease or if there has been damage, in which case a bathroom type silicon will hold the oil in.

It's always worth trying to save the gasket in one piece by careful dismantling. Some get used a lot more than once.....

[Danbretta]

Thanks for the replies lads, I was tempted to try grease on the gasket, would make stripping it down easier. How secure is it compared to sealant at holding back the oil, is it advisable to use high melt grease or does it not matter?

[ULC Soulagent]

There are 4 types of chaincase gasket available
1- Standard does the job of keeping oil in providing both sealing side are smooth with no screwdriver butchery
2- Bgm silicon bead type which usually covers the butchery( not heard great results about these)
3- Mb thicker gasket too cover the butchery and also lift the kickstart shaft of the clutch housing
4- as mentioned b4 is the Cork gasket which is the thickest available for all sorts of cover ups
Thin smear of any grease is fine

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I might add that there are crankcase gaskets available in various thicknesses from many suppliers.

You should shop around, because it is always best to buy a couple so that a spare is to hand.

Personally, the 2 mm thick CamLam gaskets I still have in use are now teenagers. I also have some of Chiggy's & don't doubt that they will also soon be the same age.......

[ULC Soulagent]

Well every day is a school day
Didn’t know Camlam did thicker type and they almost on my doorstep
And again with Chiggy Upgrades stuff

[Danbretta]

I have a small selection I have picked up over the last week. I normally use the standard, with the sealant these seem to be ok although they only really last one use once I manage to get the chaincase off. I'll look into greasing them in future and see how I get on.

I braved the rain and got the exhaust back on this morning. Seems taking the chain tensioner off has eliminated that whining noise, (new video uploaded). Link below if anyone is interested...

https://youtu.be/kRLCCYGySJg

I'll check on the play in the chain after a but if use and see if the tensioner will go back in if theres enough slack by then. Probably be spring by then.

Thanks for all your help and advice guys. I'm sure I'll be back here with more questions very soon....

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Thank you for posting that video which confirms that you have sorted the issue. Well done!

I would suggest you fettle the tensioner sooner, rather than later, with a view to when it will be required. If you fit it now in 'idle' it is @ least in situ......

I use this stuff cut down to make an inverted 'U' as the clamp for chain tensioners:

https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/cab ... 5&PDP=true

If necessary, the lip (on the one side) can also be cut back. These strips of metal are very strong & bite into the tensioner body, though I think I may have used thick M6 washers beneath the 'U' that do not allow too much deformation of the bracket. They still allow use of the OEM tab washers but I use long M6 engineers studs or high tensile socket set screws as well. With extra deep M6 plain nuts! I hope that all makes sense

Oh! When you can, shorten those cables a bit please! If you get some specific cable ends that are fitted to cycle cables that just crimp on, all the better

[Danbretta]

Thanks for the reply, yes it all makes sense and good idea about the clamp tensioner, the MB tensioner does come with a pair of longer studs and a plate that sits under the nuts (it wasnt shown in my original image but good idea about the clamp bar anyway that is something to consider).
Noted on the cable lengths too, I'll get some of those cable caps and tidy them up, that'll be this weekends job... then I suppose it would be rude not to take it for a spin.... I think I deserve it now.

Stay safe everyone and have a good xmas !