Gear selector arm Vs rear brake cable outer.

[Andie]

My worn LI gear selector arm has been replaced with a GP one - however it's rubbing on and has split the rear brake cable outer (a standard LI frictionless cable).
The cable is routed correctly.

Is there any chance that there is an alternate, thinner cable outer? (is a GP cable thinner?) - Thanks - Andrew

[Wack]

Just bend it up a bit to clear the cable

[Knowledge]

There are two types of rear brake cable available. The traditional type uses a 3mm inner cable but there is also a nylon lined cable which uses a 2.5mm inner cable.

This outer is a bit thinner and may help address your problem, though I have not had a problem with a split in an outer cable.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

The cable clip that fits to the gear/clutch cable adjuster block should be ‘tweak-able’ to get the rear brake cable to run a little lower down, but if the outer is fundamentally too long, the excess has to go somewhere & will arc up wherever you don’t want it to!

[Andie]

Thank you. I thought about bending it but wouldn't want to do it in situ and it'd be a bugger to get out.
I'll check the routing again, and cable length, and enquire about the nylon cable.
MOT Thursday so want all to look ship shape...

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I thought about bending it but wouldn't want to do it in situ and it'd be a bugger to get out.

You can't have done much work on a Lambretta if you think this would be difficult to replace! It shouldn't be much of a job to bend, or remove for that matter.

[Wack]

I think the problem Mark is the selector arm is too low and chafing on the cable where it enters the rear shock mount. The GP one will bend up easy using a screwdriver etc against the casing.

[Andie]

I think the problem Mark is the selector arm is too low and chafing on the cable where it enters the rear shock mount. The GP one will bend up easy using a screwdriver etc against the casing.

Thanks for the photo, yes that's it. Looks easy enough, I'll have a look and see if i can give that a go.
I am not a great mechanic though, it's true....

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Bending the arm may solve the issue, but unless the arm is fouling the crankcase itself, my opinion remains that the cable is @ fault as it is not where it should be, in the recess designed for it just behind the ‘number block’ cast into the crankcase.

Having had precisely this occurrence with a marginally too long an outer, I’d be surprised if it’s not the same thing here.

All good fun, eh?