Disc brake actuator

[Storkfoot]

How do you separate this for plating? Is it preened over ?

[HxPaul]

Just sandblast it,usually theirs an i cap covering the outside and you dont even see the inside(spring side) because its inside the brake.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAMBRETTA-FR ... SwTfBcdqBn

[gaz_powell]

Paul
I've never stripped one but looking at that one and the remade ones, I'd say they are press/peened over
Good luck
Gaz

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I think that I had one apart many years ago, but cannot swear as to how, or even why

Because the spring is very strong (like a die spring) they need compressing in a vice with a socket/tube over the pin end. Ideally they need compressing with something that allows access to the end, so an open ended thick spanner (or two) of the right size between the vice jaw & the spring collar.

The balls are just a standard ball bearing.

[coaster]

I have an unused pattern one if its any use to you Paul?

[vegansydney]

A friend (and mentor) of mine rebuilds these. He submitted the instructions to v2 of the Spanners Manual but I guess they got left on the cutting room floor.

Basically, grind the peened top off, replace the bearing and electroplate everything before reassembling with a high tensile button head bolt. He made a basic jig to hold everything together. I'll see if I can PM you some photos over the weekend.

[Storkfoot]

Prised bearings out which is just as well as they were in a bad way. Still can’t see how to separate without knocking the preen off

[Storkfoot]

I have an unused pattern one if its any use to you Paul?

Thanks, mate. I do actually have another one that a previous owner chromed. However, I’d like to save that one for another day

[Storkfoot]

A friend (and mentor) of mine rebuilds these. He submitted the instructions to v2 of the Spanners Manual but I guess they got left on the cutting room floor.

Basically, grind the peened top off, replace the bearing and electroplate everything before reassembling with a high tensile button head bolt. He made a basic jig to hold everything together. I'll see if I can PM you some photos over the weekend.

That would be brilliant if you could let me see what he did. Thanks, Benji

[dickie]

If you get it electroless nickel plated you could give them it in that condition.

It gets dipped (in acid?) first which removes the rust and crap and the nickel gets to all the nooks and crannies without disassembly.

I've had stuff as bad as that done.

[Storkfoot]

If you get it electroless nickel plated you could give them it in that condition.

It gets dipped (in acid?) first which removes the rust and crap and the nickel gets to all the nooks and crannies without disassembly.

I've had stuff as bad as that done.

Not a bad shout. That, as long as it gets to all the rust, new 8mm bearings and a liberal dollop of grease should get a functioning actuator.

[dickie]

I prefer the idea of a button head screw for future maintenance though.

[vegansydney]

If you get it electroless nickel plated you could give them it in that condition. It gets dipped (in acid?) first which removes the rust and crap and the nickel gets to all the nooks and crannies without disassembly.

I'm a huge fan of electroless nickel. The first thing I do after stripping down a scooter for a rebuild is send all the hardware off for electroless nickel plating. I love the consistent finish, without the watermarks associated with electroplated zinc. It also looks close to factory finish and is stupidly cheap to do. That said, due to the thrust roller bearing inside the actuator, I'd be cautious about doing it on such a critical safety component, but that's just my 2 cents.

Here's a photo I took today of a rebuilt actuator on my GP. It was rebuilt by a friend and mentor, James P. (some might remember him from the old forum). It utilizes a high-tensile button head. The actuator shaft needs to be tapped to accept the button-head. High strength threadlocker is also recommended. This particular one has been in regular use for over 10 years without any issues.

[Storkfoot]

Thanks, Benji. I’ll do that.

[Storkfoot]

If anyone has any rusty old actuators sat in their shed, I am interested in buying them. Please get in touch if you do.

[a.lo]

I would certainly use an original in any condition over a repop anyday. this is only for the fact I could not get the remade one to work in any circumstance,whether the ramp profile is wrong or as I suspect the spring is just not strong enough as it kept binding. put the orig. back in, problem solved. trouble is it lets the look of the scooter down as I painted the visible lever part to make it look a bit more presentable as this post shows it is not easy to refurbish

[Storkfoot]

I would certainly use an original in any condition over a repop anyday. this is only for the fact I could not get the remade one to work in any circumstance,whether the ramp profile is wrong or as I suspect the spring is just not strong enough as it kept binding. put the orig. back in, problem solved. trouble is it lets the look of the scooter down as I painted the visible lever part to make it look a bit more presentable as this post shows it is not easy to refurbish

Now having it apart, I have come to the conclusion that you really need to do pull it apart before replating. The primary reason is that there is a proper radial needle roller thrust bearing (4th part from the left) which needs to be replaced on this one and, I’d suggest, on any that have seen substantial use, or been allowed to rust away, over the years.

[coaster]

I would certainly use an original in any condition over a repop anyday. this is only for the fact I could not get the remade one to work in any circumstance,whether the ramp profile is wrong or as I suspect the spring is just not strong enough as it kept binding. put the orig. back in, problem solved. trouble is it lets the look of the scooter down as I painted the visible lever part to make it look a bit more presentable as this post shows it is not easy to refurbish

Now having it apart, I have come to the conclusion that you really need to do pull it apart before replating. The primary reason is that there is a proper radial needle roller thrust bearing (4th part from the left) which needs to be replaced on this one and, I’d suggest, on any that have seen substantial use, or been allowed to rust away, over the years.

Is that bearing available Paul? what do the repro ones use in there?

[vegansydney]

Is that bearing available Paul? what do the repro ones use in there?

They're widely available as they're common to Japanese motorcycle clutches. The Suzuki part number is 09263-15003 and the Yamaha part number is 93340-21505. As for the remade actuators, no idea, I've never owned one. My name is not Paul either

[coaster]

......... My name is not Paul either

I was replying to Paul (Storkfoot), great detailed info btw