inboard disc

[Adam_Winstone]

I'll try to remember to check mine too.

[Scooterlam]

Just to wrap this up.
Changed disc, pads and replaced grub screw.
Still needs the longer grub screw but now has room for adjustment for the rest of the pads life.
Screw clears the windows and brake works fine.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Good feedback but I’ve only just read the post.

I could have @ least suggested sooner to you, as MSC used to do a modification with their race bikes, & I think is an excellent change. Instead of the grub screw with its centre only point load, they left it out & used thick aluminium washers that just fitted. In effect ‘shims’

I believe that such an alteration also means the pad is less likely to revolve in its housing as a consequence.

Perhaps this late information might help others in the future….

[Scooterlam]

That's good idea, obviously more track orientated as adjustment would involve splitting the hub.
Starting the back brake on a late Indian 200 case. and this is something else all together.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Scooterlam:

"That's good idea, obviously more track orientated as adjustment would involve splitting the hub.
Starting the back brake on a late Indian 200 case. and this is something else all together. "

Right. I am awaiting the installation of a 3D package on my home PC because I need to get my son to check it over first as he built it & is far cleverer than me.

But I am hoping to ‘go to market’ with properly, ‘design engineered’ products that should solve problems &/or enhance ownership for the Lambretta enthusiast.

lt may be a bold claim I live to regret, but I reckon that by comparison with some of what’s ‘out there’ now, ‘we’ deserve better.

I am fully aware of the current problems & solutions offered for the miss-machined SIL crankcases & if my venture succeeds, that will be the first product as I have modelled it when I had free (paid) access to SolidWorks.

Obviously, I need access to engineering manufacture & that will be via a Machine Shop that has the hard core minimum facilities. Once upon a time, I could/should have got any amount of ‘Guvvo’ but those days are gone. So, an enthusiast on this Forum that works in a Machine Shop would be a great ally to have. I’m not looking for this to be for free, but a common enthusiasm is a great thing to have & is so motivational.

I need to kick myself up the arse & get on with doing my job as a Design Engineer for the hobby I love. FFS, amongst many other things, I’ve been a Chassis Design Engineer for Le Mans race cars, so I can’t be absolute cr#p!

Please, feel free to add a few kicks of your own because I need to feel that there are other people that would prefer we could acquire 'proper' stuff......

[Scooterlam]

"Obviously, I need access to engineering manufacture & that will be via a Machine Shop that has the hard core minimum facilities."

This will probably be the hardest part.

On the subject of rear brakes, any reason why the Jockey Boxenstop adjustable pivot cant be left floating. obviously the securing method would need changing.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Scooterlam:

"On the subject of rear brakes, any reason why the Jockey Boxenstop adjustable pivot cant be left floating. obviously the securing method would need changing."

If you were to leave the pivot free to move about, rather than secure it as per the instructions, it will move wherever it wants, when it wants.

The result would be as the wrongly machined SIL pivot points but even worse!

[Scooterlam]

It doesn't move randomly but centres as the first contacting shoe is pushed round by the cam.
Similar but completely different to a floating disc or single piston caliper.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Scooterlam:

"On the subject of rear brakes, any reason why the Jockey Boxenstop adjustable pivot cant be left floating."

What I said earlier is corrrect:

If you were to leave the pivot free to move about, rather than secure it as per the instructions, it will move wherever it wants, when it wants.

"Step 4: Now fit the rear hub (with the correct cone and shim), bolt it down and apply the brake several times.
This will make the brake shoes settle into position in the hub. Then carefully remove the hub again, hold the pivot post with an open - ended spanner and fully tighten the M6 Allen screw. Now refit the hub and check if it rotates freely. If it rubs on the brake shoes, this step has to be repeated."

Scooterlam:

It doesn't move randomly but centres as the first contacting shoe is pushed round by the cam.
Similar but completely different to a floating disc or single piston caliper.

The pivot screw centre can only be left untightened for the purpose of the set up. The selected pivot post has a large clearance hole to allow for variation. I can assure you that if the pivot post is left free to float, it will move toward the centre of the hub & braking efficiancy will be lost, rather than gained.

What the instructions should really say, & I suspect those fitting these kits have done/will do, is to try & get the pivot post as far radially outwards toward the hub brake surface as possible without the shoes rubbing, then nip the screw up tight.