My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[911hillclimber]

Thank you, I'm impressed that your Loved One knows what one is!

[911hillclimber]

First 'set-back' today.
Bit arrived from a new supplier in a record 18 hours via Royal Mail!

Parts of good quality, so they will be getting all my other orders.

The set-back was giving a 'professional' blasting company my engine outer cover for vapour blasting.
£5 later I have a very grit blasted cover with grease build-up still in the inside webs...

What a shame and I should have trusted my first sense to leave it well alone as I did the engine block.
So, stripped the kick start mechanism down, washed all the fine grit out of everywhere (twice) and a final wet blast with carb cleaner and a good air line blast too.

You live and learn.

Second trip was I've lost the kick start shaft outer shim...

So, having been along this route today, clutch tomorrow.
My new springs (that came with the clutch kit) are 8mm longer than the thicker wire springs that came out (I think the original clutch), but I think the spring rate of the longer ones compressed is about the same as the original ones compressed to the same height.
Still tempted to put the old ones back in!

Been convincing the wife the next financial lump is about now. (powder paint)

[HxPaul]

SH1/ 20 carb for sale on ebay at the moment,item number - 251795523073

[Storkfoot]

... clutch tomorrow.My new springs (that came with the clutch kit) are 8mm longer than the thicker wire springs that came out (I think the original clutch), but I think the spring rate of the longer ones compressed is about the same as the original ones compressed to the same height. Still tempted to put the old ones back in!

I'm sure common sense is telling you that sticking very old clutch springs back in is not the best idea Unless, of course you are so attached to your clean chaincase that you enjoy taking it off again

[911hillclimber]

I'm 'tracking' the carb, I'm told it only needs a dusting and it's good to go. A member on here has offered me a 20mm but it has some light damage, so going for the best I can get, but it gets to a point when the Jetex cost is attractive too.
He has a 22mm also...

No, the new ones will go into the clutch, but the original ones are made of thicker spring wire so as stiff as the longer ones when both are compressed to the same length.
Originally the TV200 had strongest springs, TV 175 bit weaker and so on.

I'll give them a try, not the end of the world to change them later. Just don't want a hard to pull clutch lever, harder the springs, harder the lever action.

[xenia1]

First 'set-back' today.
Bit arrived from a new supplier in a record 18 hours via Royal Mail!

Parts of good quality, so they will be getting all my other orders.

The set-back was giving a 'professional' blasting company my engine outer cover for vapour blasting.
£5 later I have a very grit blasted cover with grease build-up still in the inside webs...

What a shame and I should have trusted my first sense to leave it well alone as I did the engine block.
So, stripped the kick start mechanism down, washed all the fine grit out of everywhere (twice) and a final wet blast with carb cleaner and a good air line blast too.

You live and learn.

Second trip was I've lost the kick start shaft outer shim...




So, having been along this route today, clutch tomorrow.
My new springs (that came with the clutch kit) are 8mm longer than the thicker wire springs that came out (I think the original clutch), but I think the spring rate of the longer ones compressed is about the same as the original ones compressed to the same height.
Still tempted to put the old ones back in!

Been convincing the wife the next financial lump is about now. (powder paint)

Welcome 911hillclimber. Like your thread.
Re your engine case, if its been course blasted you can retrieve some of the original finish by going over the casting with some 1000 grit wet and dry (used wet) and then giving it a soaking in dilute phosphoric acid (50-1 using 80% concentrate). Use a trigger spray bottle keeping it wet for a few minutes then give it a rinse in hot water.
Hope this is of some use to you.

Andy.

[911hillclimber]

Thanks Andy, I've 'flatted' it with an abrasive pad and that has toned it down a bit, but will probably get another off eebbay that has not been messed with.
Lost the 20mm carb off ebay, but have a track on 2 more. No rush and can always fit a Jetex until I find the correct one. Disappointing but simply outbid.

Clutch is in with no probs.

The original kick start is well rusty and a pattern one is £20, about the cost of chroming the original which will always be pitted. That can wait too!

Time to gather/find all the parts to go off to the blasters/painters.

[HxPaul]

Dont buy a kickstart pedal off ebay,some haven't been tempered properly and bend very easily,at £20 it sounds like this is a cheap copy and you could have problems.Buy one from Readspeed as they are local to you,at least if you have any problems with it you can take it back.

Paul

[Rich Oswald]

Buzz Solomoto sells decent kickstarts.

[911hillclimber]

Seems the parts to be chromed has grown, so will try to re-chrome the original. Buzz has a good site!

In preparation for taking everything to be powder coated white I dug the actual frame out of shed No2.
I wanted to check it for straightness so sat it on axle stands and levelled it to the engine mounting tube as the datum.
The stand and body 'outriggers' were quite good except the one side for the leg shield which was about 4mm off true.

The side with the rear foot rest welded to the frame all aligned perfectly with a straight edge, but not the other side. So, careful thump with a lump hammer 'adjusted' the offending part true. Very easy to bend...

Reading Stickys bible, he suggests adding a full weld to the stand crossmember, so that was done while I was at it.
Removed the fuel filler cover and the chrome top ring (tight fit), but the chrome is a bit iffy, so it will have to be stripped and re-plated (with the kick start etc).

I seem to have lost over the last 15 years the loose rear foot rest panel bracket and oddly the seat rear catch plate. Two large bits that have disappeared, odd.

I need to have these two to take with the rest for painting, so off to Scooter Restorations for those and a pile of other parts I'll need to get the engine in, the forks in and the stand on when it all gets back.

Somewhere I'm sure I've seen a company that sell ALL as in ALL the fasteners you need for the WHOLE scooter in Stainless, a great big pack of bagged fasteners, but can't find them now..

Rescued the ignition switch (no key number ) the horn light switch and the regulator. The main loom has gone very brittle, so will replace it although it looks quite good overall but will spoil the TV overall. The steering lock was a swine to dig out and need to be replaced I think. Choke turn handle assembly now un-seized and works a dream. Brake light switch solid....

Got to find the main body panels now, shed No3 I hope.

[coaster]

Nice attention to detail with the frame alignment check Jem Booth is your man for lock repairs, definitely worth doing rather than using new replacement pattern parts. Someone will have contact details for Jem I'm sure.

[paulsx150]

Hi 911 hillclimber,

I too am in the early stages of a rebuild ( my SX150 ). We seem to have a shared interest in early Porsches too.

Paul (pauldvern on DDK)

[911hillclimber]

Thank you Coaster, will try to find him. All the locks have different or no number..

DDK!
Who would have thought a fellow DDK'r would lurk on here!

This is very different to an early 911....and about 10% of the cost, but great fun as is the 911 in hibernation.



Shopping list for Wednesday is huge. Budget under sever strain.
Nothing new then.

[daniel whiteley]

heres a carb on ebay may be some use ??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lambretta-20m ... 3aa02ec601

[911hillclimber]

Thank you, the bidder is me!
Might get ousted by a rich man, time will tell.

[xenia1]

In Chit Chat of course, can we see a picture of this 911 of yours? Its one of my favourite cars (im greedy and want a GT3 ) and its on my bucket list..

[Mal*1]

Jem Booths number just came up on Scooterotica forum if you want to get in touch about locks. 07866272130 for txt.

Great thread...

[911hillclimber]

xenia1: I've pm'd you.

Thanks for the number. I damaged the outer brass barrel getting the lock out of the head casting, rest seems ok.

Pleased people are enjoying this little thread, adds to the whole affair.

If I have to buy new rims, which are the best? I've read in the past that most new rims are out of true compared to the originals.

Then the mighty decision about tyres, which ones and black or white wall. There are some 'all weather' tyres which look like winter tyres to me that appeal. They need to be period looking.

Continentals seem to be favoured by most?

[Mal*1]

You can't go far wrong with SIP tubeless wheels, but it depends on what look your after. For me safety was the key decision.

[911hillclimber]

Thanks, I'll see what the shot blast man says. The two sets of rims are quite rusty where the tyres/tube have sat not on the outside surfaces so much.

Found all the bodywork this afternoon, first time I've seen it for 15 years...

Legshields are great. Surface rust, no more, no splits or dings.
One rear foot rest has a good split to it down the side, but has the loose bracket still attached which is why I couldn't find it yesterday.
I have most/all of the rubber runner end caps but did not realise that the rear strips were simply plastic. (is this correct?)

The seat looks perfect. Must be a replacement cover, no name plate on the back and no obvious mean of the seat engaging with the non-factory looking rear seat clasp (see pics).
Also found the fibre glass TV shaped front mud guard still in one piece amazingly.

The side shields could be better. There is a small amount of rust close to the fuel/choke taps at the bottom that will need some cutting out and fresh welded in and the locking handles are a bit bruised. Lots of surface rust but only a few shallow dents.

Good job I like bodywork!