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Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 3:57 pm
by dickie
My rear brake pedal wobbles side to side. It has a new burass bush, so the pin must be worn. I should have replaced it before paint/build.
Is there an easy fix?
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:21 pm
by bazza3004
would drilling and tapping the pedal post help. ive done this before then used a suitable sized bolt and flat washer screwed in to hold pedal in place but this was on a scoot where circlip groove was worn. it may help your side to side movement if the washer used is up against the pedal until you replace the post.
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 6:29 pm
by AlG
Aren’t they supposed to have a thick and then a thin washer/shim as well? Not sure which way round they go before or after the pedal and then circlip?
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:38 pm
by dickie
bazza3004 wrote:would drilling and tapping the pedal post help. ive done this before then used a suitable sized bolt and flat washer screwed in to hold pedal in place but this was on a scoot where circlip groove was worn. it may help your side to side movement if the washer used is up against the pedal until you replace the post.
Nah, the groove is fine. I know what yoi mean about the washer restricting movement but it wouldn't be enough. Starnge thing is that the pedal was a tight fit with the new bush.
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:40 pm
by dickie
AlG wrote:Aren’t they supposed to have a thick and then a thin washer/shim as well? Not sure which way round they go before or after the pedal and then circlip?
Yes, I can't remember the order but I used an exploded diagram when fitting so I'm (fairly) confident that they're correct.
I'm sure I saw a kit somwhere recently that allowed you to remove the post with a grinder or whatever then drill and tap the remainder to accept a screw on post.
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sat Aug 18, 2018 7:46 pm
by dickie
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:30 am
by shane BBoys
Good kit for a project un-painted.
Lots of coolant needed for a painted bike but V messy.
Shane
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 9:35 am
by EddieStone
I did it on mine and it wasn't messy. You do have to take all the legshields off which is pain but I don't see what could cause any problems. Hacksaw the old pin off and file it flat, centre tap it the drill progressively bigger holes until you get to the tap size, then tap it and bolt the new brake shoe pin in.
It's not hard but you do need to be careful and not rush it.
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:32 am
by grandpa
EddieStone wrote:I did it on mine and it wasn't messy.
It's not hard but you do need to be careful and not rush it.
Hi Dicky
+ 1 Just dont rush it as Eddie mentions, and keep drill horizontal
Have a look at this:
https://scooterlab.uk/lambretta-brake-p ... -workshop/Good luck
Grandpa
Re: Wobbly brake pedal

Posted:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 4:39 pm
by Warkton Tornado No.1
The solution that I have carried out a number of times is to drill & tap the pin to suit a GPW (Gear Pin Washer) after having first removed the end portion @ the circlip groove. The hole size is usually M5 & I would recommend a good, high tensile, socket couuntersunk screw.
The finished end needs to be perpendicular but can be 'short' as the GPW can be shimmed to suit with, say, M5 washers to make the fit to the brake pedal a good running clearance. It's also worthwhile cleaning up both sides of the brake pedal itself (if you can file 'square') to have good surface areas.
Whenever I have done the job, I've also always used Oilite bushes as replacements as they tend to be a little undersized in their bore once pressed in, which helps the whole scenario. If reaming out, be careful not to 'smear' the sintered bore!
I've never had to consider cutting off the pin, but if I were to do so, would look @ socket shoulder screws (stripper bolts) rather than brake pivots. I have used them in my own DIY rear set brakes & they have a ground surface & their thread is still smaller than the main diameter so not too difficult to drill & tap in situ. Although their surfaces are hard, I cut off the heads & drilled & tapped as above for use with a GPW as the pedal can then be shimmed accurately as it is the side load on it that causes rapid wear & the action to feel sloppy.
I hope this alternate take helps....