LCGB Forums

hi There,

I have a Series 3 LI 150 that I am in the process of restoring - it was imported from Italy so did not have a battery fitted as standard, my question is - is it worth converting to English spec with a Battery?

Bike will be used regularly though for weekends and evenings rather than a commuter bike.

Am also looking to fit an ignition switch as it did not have one as standard, just a kill switch. Which one will I need as I note Scootopia does a DC and an AC version.

If it helps, will be having a Varitronic electronic ignition.

Thanks in advance Guys and Gals

Darren

Up to you and you will get lots of responses giving you different suggestions.

Personally, I hate battery maintenance (having run various 6v and 12v battery systems for a number of years) so now do all I can to get rid of batteries. Also note that if you change to 12V electronic then you're a long way off the original 6v battery spec. 12V AC should serve your requirement.

One thing to watch out for, from your thread, is that you cannot straight fit a key ignition switch to an LI3 headset without doing a lot of grinding! It can be done, many do, incl. me, but don't think that this is a straight swap.

Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

Adam

Thanks Adam,

I am favouring towards not fitting one TBH and thanks for the tips ref the switch - I did read it can be time consuming/fiddly. Will have my calm head and a cuppa to hand when I start.

Cheers

Darren

Make sure you wear your specs. I ended up at the walk in centre with a lump of aluminium in my eye when I did mine - stupidity.

Anyway, I agree with Adam; I hate batteries and only have them on my bikes where a kickstart isn't fitted. But you can do D.C. with a capacitor which I've done on my last and current build.

I'm a big fan of D.C. ignition.

if it's a std S3 it takes a lot of grinding to fit a key ignition in. if you're restoring it you may as well do an AC electronic conversion in my experience you only need to go DC it you are going to run gizmos or extra lights

Be aware that the only difference between an AC ignition switch and a DC one, is the AC one doesn't have the parking lights switch position. I you're not bothered about having parking lights then it doesn't matter which you use.

Fast n Furious wrote:Be aware that the only difference between an AC ignition switch and a DC one, is the AC one doesn't have the parking lights switch position. I you're not bothered about having parking lights then it doesn't matter which you use.

Also, some switches are bigger that others, scootopia switches for example are excellent but they are slightly bigger than most and there's not that much metal in that area of a series 3 headset.

Fast n Furious wrote:Be aware that the only difference between an AC ignition switch and a DC one, is the AC one doesn't have the parking lights switch position. I you're not bothered about having parking lights then it doesn't matter which you use.

I mean full dc ignition as used on modern motorbikes. Cost me about £15 as well.

Thanks for your responses guys - very helpful.

Cheers - Darren

Hi Drj916
I am still a big fan of the wassell dc conversion non flickering lights horn that works alarm and for me indicators.
have a look at this
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6441&p=53753&hilit=wassell+dc+conversion#p53753
Grandpa

Hi DJR916,
Do you not mean British spec, instead of English spec.
Cheers
Stag

dickie wrote:

Fast n Furious wrote:Be aware that the only difference between an AC ignition switch and a DC one, is the AC one doesn't have the parking lights switch position. I you're not bothered about having parking lights then it doesn't matter which you use.

I mean full dc ignition as used on modern motorbikes. Cost me about £15 as well.

Yeah I know Dickie. My comment was more for DJR's benefit.
I use a computer programmable DC ignition kit on my TS1 combined with a water proof CDI ignition coil from an outboard motor. So much better than magneto ignition.