No readout from Koso CHT gauge

[Storkfoot]

I purchased a KOSO cylinder head temperature gauge from SIP. I have an AC system so purchased an Intelliconverter from Scootronics to power it.

The Intelliconverter is powering the gauge and is working as I can charge my iPhone from it. The backlight on the gauge is working but I am getting no readout from the gauge at all. You have to hold the button down for 3 seconds and it should then burst into life. It doesn’t.

I have checked the continuity of all the wiring and it is all good.

I’ll post up a drawing of the way it is wired in a bit but, for now, is there any way of checking whether there is a problem with the gauge itself? It could be that this gauge is fairly old stock as the internal battery it came with was dead. I had to buy a new one.

The sensor. I broke the first one in fitting it. I have fitted a new one.

[Fast n Furious]

The backlight on most gauges will illumante at very low voltages but the display will need what it says in the manual for the gauge.
Are you supplying the correct voltage level?

[Storkfoot]

The instructions don’t say what voltage is required to power the display. It only says 9v is needed to make the backlight work.

I’ll check the voltage though. Cheers.

[Fast n Furious]

Have you any manufacturers details regarding the gauge model?

[Storkfoot]

Apologies, posting pics from an iPhone

[Storkfoot]

The backlight on most gauges will illumante at very low voltages but the display will need what it says in the manual for the gauge.
Are you supplying the correct voltage level?

I have 10.5 volts at tickover going in to the Intelliconverter via the yellow on regulator. But, only 3v (4v if I rev it) coming out.

[Knowledge]

I have a feeling that it needs a load on it to give the correct output voltage. I seem to remember this from when I fitted one to Roy Hooper's super scooter, the Love Missile.

[Storkfoot]

Re-reading those instructions, it’s the battery only that powers the LCD display. The backlight is DC 12v and so is powered through the Intelliconverter.

I then discovered that I had the battery installed incorrectly as there’s a tang that should sit over the battery, not underneath it.

So, having made this progress, I was hopeful that the display would burst into life. Sadly, I was wrong. Still dead.

I’ll leave it now until the weekend.

[coaster]

Is the Koso the same as the Stage 6 gauge? if so. the poxy display only stays on for a few seconds

[Storkfoot]

Is the Koso the same as the Stage 6 gauge? if so. the poxy display only stays on for a few seconds

Not sure, mate. They look similar but not exactly the same externally. Progress would be getting the display to work for one second! But then again, there’s no accounting for user error

At the weekend,I’ll check continuity again, battery connections, test other sensor in hot water,
check the voltage on battery and try another battery. If that doesn’t work, it’s going back to SIP.

[Fast n Furious]

definately sounds like an internal battery problem.

[Storkfoot]

definately sounds like an internal battery problem.

Tested the “new” internal battery this morning. It was only producing 0.4v. Replaced with another new one producing over 4v and the gauge burst into life. I can only assume that putting the battery in incorrectly in the first place lost nearly all of its charge.

From looking on the internet I’m not the only person who has fitted the battery incorrectly.

Anyway, it is working. For now

[ROClarke]

Seem to remember my internal battery was flat when I purchased mine,it must have come the long way round via the Panama Canal.lol