LCGB Forums

When setting up the back clamp,is the cam supposed to be flat against the shoes and not half way actuating, or is the rear cable to slack,as pedal is not returning.thanks

I always use a strong cable tie to pull the rear lever so the shoes are hard against the hub I then take up the slack at the pedal end of the cable. When you cut the cable tie off, the small amount of slack in the cable allows the the shoes to return freeing the hub. I then take up any remaining slack with the adjuster. The spring st the pedal end should return the pedal. Hope this helps

Thanks, but should the cam be flat against the shoes,eg,not at a angle when the brake is all tightened?, I'm also in cov,
.cheers

When the cam is flat the shoes are as far away from the drum as it will go. At that point your pedal will be well down before they work. It’s a trade off about finding the breaking pont arm position cable slack. I always dump the standard cable and adjusterand go for the one piece cable and the threaded adjuster, so easy to setup without it bottoming out.

Thanks,I've had hub skimmed,skimmed the shoes today,but the pedal is not returning,will this be the slackness of the cable?,I'm can only use std cable as its on my chop.

If the cam is going too far it can lock on, I presume you have used copper grease on the cam and pivot points. When it locked on how much free room have you got on the arm, try removing the Arm and going back one spline, the original adjuster with nut and bolt and bent wire can foul the shock mount, try and get it further out. You can skim too much of so the cam goes past the point of no return. Also the cams on LI andGp are different but I can’t remember the difference without getting sticky’s bible out.

Thanks,I picked up a couple of cams on Saturday,li types,could be the can going past it's no return point,will try again tomorrow, cheers, yes copper grease applied to pivots.

george747 wrote:Thanks,I picked up a couple of cams on Saturday,li types

Don't forget that these have a right-way-up position.

I have been using Tino Saatchi's new hub trimming tool for the first time. I didn't appear to take too much material off the shoes, but I notice that the cam is already significantly deployed before the brake shoes can start to have effect.

So the answer to your initial question George, is that the cam doesn't lie flat on the shoes.

Thanks knowledge, I can only get the cam set up at a angle,as you say.thanks

george747 wrote:When setting up the back clamp,is the cam supposed to be flat against the shoes and not half way actuating, or is the rear cable to slack,as pedal is not returning.thanks

The cam should be flat to enable your rear hub to be fitted (otherwise your rear hub will catch the shoes and wont be able to be fitted without a struggle)When the hub is fitted I use a cable tie as Covboy and wrap it around the rear brake leaver and the rear shocker mount and pull tight until the rear brake is pulled on,I then fit the cable and rear adjuster(if your not using a quick release cable)and fasten the knurled wheel.