Mag flange series 3

[aby]

Trying desperately to remove my mag flange, no joy so far, heated the bejesus out of it and it moved about 1/4". Trying to find a puller but everyone sold out, the 2no 6mm threads are stripped also. I don't want to knacker the crank either.
Are any other pullers compatable ?

[HxPaul]

The only way is to knock it out with the crank,unfortunately this knackers your crank.

[aby]

Would that also mean new oil seals, end plate etc. Just wondering if it's cheaper to cut out the mag flange as they are less to replace.
Going to Wickstead tomorrow so will have a look at prices but I saw mag flange roughly £50 and crank £110 plus online or would it be best just to replace the crank anyway. Any advise appreciated, suppose after the cost of rebuilding best not to cut costs on one of the main parts.

[Tractorman]

You could try tapping out the jack off thread holes to a larger thread and then either use larger bolts to jack off the housing or rig up a puller using those holes and pull on the end of the crank. If you do the later put the flywheel nut on to prevent possible damage to the thread.

[Meds]

Have you tried heating the casing with boiling water and using freezer spray on the mag flange

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

If the magneto flange has only moved 1/4", then there is hope!

By now, everything should have been well soaked in a penetrant (not WD40) to ease the process.

Ideally, there needs to be some support between the mag flange & crankcase, something like RSA (Rolled Steel Angle) flanges cut with a scallop shape to fit well into the gap, either side.

If the engine has been removed from the scooter, any support that fits the 1/4" gap can be supported on blocks so that the chai case side of the engine is just off the ground.

Now, with a copper drift or soft faced mallet, the centre of the crankshaft (preferably with nut fitted) can be hammered downwards. Keep moving whatever supports are used to try & limit damage to the mag flange.

I hope it works for you......

[Knowledge]

If you have 1/4” of movement, can you not slip an M6 nut into the gap you have created and thread an M6 bolt through the stripped-out extractor holes in the mag flange?

You could then hold the nut with an open ended spanner while winding up the bolt with a socket. This should allow bolt to function as an extractor again.

Does that make sense?

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

If you have 1/4” of movement, can you not slip an M6 nut into the gap you have created and thread an M6 bolt through the stripped-out extractor holes in the mag flange?

You could then hold the nut with an open ended spanner while winding up the bolt with a socket. This should allow bolt to function as an extractor again.

Does that make sense?

It makes perfect sense to me As does Helicoiling the stripped threads when possible.

(My solution is a bit 'heavier duty' but often what I have had to resort to.......)

[dickie]

Not really technical advice, but possibly moral support.

I once had to remove one by hitting the crank REALLY hard with a 2lb hammer for 2 hours. The movement was so slow that I was using feelers gauges to see if I was actually achieving anything.

1/4" was the home straight, so I think you're ok. If it has budged that far, I reckon it doesn't need much belting, so with a copper mallet on the crank, you might get away with it.

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Now knock it back in and then knock it out some more.

[aby]

Cheers chaps, managed to get a puller from Wicksteed parts fair so will try and re tap or helicoil for a start, then get heavy handed if it strips again. What's the best penetrant in you opinion, for most other things I needed to loosen off I had a bucket of diesel. But didn't want to stick this in it.