LCGB Forums

Is there an official torque setting for sip tubeless rims. Can't find one anywhere

Have you asked SIP? I just do mine as tight as I can with the socket bar I carry in my tool kit

missing lynx wrote:Have you asked SIP? I just do mine as tight as I can with the socket bar I carry in my tool kit

Same here, about the same as you would for normal rims. They aren't likely to comr undone with the Nordloc washers. I do keep a check from time to time especially on very long runs. If thery were required to use a specific torque setting we'd all have to add a torque wrench to our travelling tool kiots

Thanks for replies. I have always just tightened them as a normal rim was just curious as sip don't state anything. Will Carry on as normal then

I don't like having to rely on those washers & the nuts supplied are humungous.

On the SIP rims I have fitted, I use M8 K-nuts which have never come loose on anything.

14lbft is recommended. there's no need to over tighten using the nordlocks on soft alloy

Hat wrote:14lbft is recommended. there's no need to over tighten using the nordlocks on soft alloy

Wherever the source for that recommendation came from, does it relate to standard OEM hub studs & nuts, or SIP specifically?

I think caution should be taken into account with the reproduced hub studs & nuts, unless they have a grading shown.

The cheaper (A2) stainless nuts, for example in the instance of the OEM set up may be only Grade 6 or less. Replacement OEM type hub studs may be anybody's guess as far as Grade.

It's great to be consistent in applying a torque, but the quality of the fasteners must be taken into account & as to whether the fasteners are assembled 'dry' or 'lubricated'

(I have witnessed ridden scooters with sheared studs, stripped (loose) nuts because the rider only cared about bling & trying to impress his mates with whatever suspension, front brake etc he had with no concern for the safety of others. Whenever I come across such horrors, I feel duty bound to correct such liabilities prior to testing/release of the bike. Inevitably, it's a thankless/unpaid task......)

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

Hat wrote:14lbft is recommended. there's no need to over tighten using the nordlocks on soft alloy[/Wherever the source for that recommendation came from, does it relate to standard OEM hub studs & nuts, or SIP specifically?
I think caution should be taken into account with the reproduced hub studs & nuts, unless they have a grading shown.

The cheaper (A2) stainless nuts, for example in the instance of the OEM set up may be only Grade 6 or less. Replacement OEM type hub studs may be anybody's guess as far as Grade.

It's great to be consistent in applying a torque, but the quality of the fasteners must be taken into account & as to whether the fasteners are assembled 'dry' or 'lubricated'

Another issue with Nordloc washers is that the torque required to get the washer to 'ratchet' up as the 2 parts slide up over the ramps plays havoc with the torque setting

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

Hat wrote:14lbft is recommended. there's no need to over tighten using the nordlocks on soft alloy

Wherever the source for that recommendation came from, does it relate to standard OEM hub studs & nuts, or SIP specifically?

I think caution should be taken into account with the reproduced hub studs & nuts, unless they have a grading shown.

The cheaper (A2) stainless nuts, for example in the instance of the OEM set up may be only Grade 6 or less. Replacement OEM type hub studs may be anybody's guess as far as Grade.

It's great to be consistent in applying a torque, but the quality of the fasteners must be taken into account & as to whether the fasteners are assembled 'dry' or 'lubricated'

(I have witnessed ridden scooters with sheared studs, stripped (loose) nuts because the rider only cared about bling & trying to impress his mates with whatever suspension, front brake etc he had with no concern for the safety of others. Whenever I come across such horrors, I feel duty bound to correct such liabilities prior to testing/release of the bike. Inevitably, it's a thankless/unpaid task......)

thats the recommended for std oem studs & nuts on steel split rims. looking at nordlok's own site, for a dry assembly with M8 studs, they recommend 29Nm/ 21ftlb, which is still a lot less than most people would expect to apply by swinging a ratchet

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

Hat wrote:
(I have witnessed ridden scooters with sheared studs, stripped (loose) nuts because the rider only cared about bling & trying to impress his mates with whatever suspension, front brake etc he had with no concern for the safety of others. Whenever I come across such horrors, I feel duty bound to correct such liabilities prior to testing/release of the bike. Inevitably, it's a thankless/unpaid task......)

Next time you are at a rally looking over other scoots, take a look at the variations in front wheel alignment. The amount that are not in the middle of the forks is alarming.

Fast n Furious wrote:

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

Hat wrote:
(I have witnessed ridden scooters with sheared studs, stripped (loose) nuts because the rider only cared about bling & trying to impress his mates with whatever suspension, front brake etc he had with no concern for the safety of others. Whenever I come across such horrors, I feel duty bound to correct such liabilities prior to testing/release of the bike. Inevitably, it's a thankless/unpaid task......)

Next time you are at a rally looking over other scoots, take a look at the variations in front wheel alignment. The amount that are not in the middle of the forks is alarming.

Only those that have an outboard disc.

Mostly yes, but not exclusively.

coaster wrote:

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

Hat wrote:14lbft is recommended. there's no need to over tighten using the nordlocks on soft alloy[/Wherever the source for that recommendation came from, does it relate to standard OEM hub studs & nuts, or SIP specifically?
I think caution should be taken into account with the reproduced hub studs & nuts, unless they have a grading shown.

The cheaper (A2) stainless nuts, for example in the instance of the OEM set up may be only Grade 6 or less. Replacement OEM type hub studs may be anybody's guess as far as Grade.

It's great to be consistent in applying a torque, but the quality of the fasteners must be taken into account & as to whether the fasteners are assembled 'dry' or 'lubricated'

Another issue with Nordloc washers is that the torque required to get the washer to 'ratchet' up as the 2 parts slide up over the ramps plays havoc with the torque setting

Maybe better with MB's method. Plain washer and spring washer.

I think all this torque setting is getting out of hand! How many of us carry a torque wrench with us when we're out on the road so anything that may need to work on at the side of the road can only be tight enough so that it can be undone with the tools you are carrying and on the flip side when doing them up again you can only get them so tight so as long as you're using the approved washers and nuts and don't go mad with your longest socket bar and check them regularly (where most fall down) you shouldn't have a problem

I think all this torque setting is getting out of hand! How many of us carry a torque wrench with us when we're out on the road so anything that may need to work on at the side of the road can only be tight enough so that it can be undone with the tools you are carrying and on the flip side when doing them up again you can only get them so tight so as long as you're using the approved washers and nuts and don't go mad with your longest socket bar and check them regularly (where most fall down) you shouldn't have a problem

With steel (OEM) type wheels, there are good spring washers available that are compact in their diameter, consequently not spoiling the appearance by being undersize of the standard size (13 mm AF) nuts, as they inevitably dig into the painted surface.

On alloy rims, my preference is to not use hard, spring washers & as previously stated, opt for K-nuts, because of the alloy's softness.

Slightly off subject, I want to give some alloy split rims another go, having obtained some oversize 'O' ring cord that I anticipate will help with the sealing problems previously experienced. These should give the best of both World''s being OEM appearance, splitable (therefore rebuildable @ the roadside) & functioning as tubeless rims.

The problem is sourcing what I would consider the best M8 male fastener. Ideally, a 'lug bolt' as used with car hubs would do the job. They are serrated under the head (splined) & pull into the hole, thereby resisting torque. I have seen such items of the correct M8 x 1.25 size used in automotive panels, bumpers etc but have never been able to source the small quantity required.

I wondered if any readers have some or are aware of how I might purchase them, please.....

a knock in wheel stud or axle stud is unlikely to be made in anything much smaller than M10 or say 3/8 UNF even for trailers

conrod bolts on the other hand.... some are spline fit and they came in metric 8mm 1.25 thread

and come in sets of 8 16 or 32

dave

gizmo wrote:Maybe better with MB's method. Plain washer and spring washer.

i once read an article in a popular scootering magazine and the author insisted that spring washers should never be used, is this a common point of debate?

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:I don't like having to rely on those washers & the nuts supplied are humungous.

On the SIP rims I have fitted, I use M8 K-nuts which have never come loose on anything.

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