Italian Ducati 6 Pole Points Stator

[TurboTrev]

I'm looking to obtain and refurb an original Ducati DC points stator for my SX150.

Is there any differnce between an original late DC SX/LI stator and a DC GP stator, other than the hole diameter (GP being greater to fit the beefier crank)? In particular, are the points fixed in exactly the same position?

I'm thinking they may not be because of the different diameter cranks, as this may affect when the points open? Anyone know? Thanks.

[Scooterslag]

Far as I'm aware - apart from the bigger hole for the taper and double spring points - they're exactly the same , oh and the sleeving is black on the GP rather than grey. Cheers Paul

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I think you have both summed up the differences.

You should find that the standard, outstanding quality of the original OEM Innocenti staters in particular will leave very little to do. I will acknowledge that any stator so old should be tested electrically, before somebody else says so!

However, the aesthetic quality is one of the reasons that I find it incredulous when people forsake such a component for the tat that they tend to buy into under the premise of 'reliability'

Points, or contact breakers have never let me down on the road & even back in the early days of racing, I only had condenser failures, & they tended to be FoMoCo fitted under the guise of reliability.

If you are considering converting what you have to 12 volt, obviously, now is the time. Although the traditional zener diode/positive earth rectifier is appropriate even to a restorer, I'm tempted to persuade one of the four wire heat sink regulator/rectifiers to fit into a gutted 6 volt rectifier housing, but has anybody achieved this, I'm wondering? I was intending to emulate the standard steel mounting plate with 4 mm aluminium plate with the same profile, but rebated to allow the greater material thickness to sit into the gutted housing.

(Sorry for the slight hijack )

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Oops!

I had intended to say that the standard cheese head slotted screw that fastens the contact breaker should preferably be replaced with a SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screw)

If you don't have a suitable M4 screw, or purchase is not economically viable, I've a stock (somewhere in my garage) & will send FOC

[TurboTrev]

^^^Thanks for all your feedback - I'm staying 6v and thanks WT No.1 for your offer of an M4 SHSC, I'll see if I have one in the garage and if I don't..... What length do I need - M4 x 6?

I've got a GP stator in stock (just couldn't compare it because my original SX stator is on my scooter) so I'll use that. What make points and condenser should I use and where do I go for them? Thanks.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

As I wrote my previous responses, I wondered for a moment whether 6 volt electrics will be such a disadvantage in the future with today's technology. I guess it will be unless the wiring loom is replaced with something extra efficient.

I'll have a look when I can for a few SHCS's that are already fitted in some of my stators.

As for procurement of condensers & contact breakers, I've bought from Rayspeed lately, along with Champion non-suppressed spark plug caps. I only use suppressed caps with electronic ignitions.

If you can, look out for fine wire Champion plugs. They appear occasionally on eBay cheaply. I can't think of the reference number, but equivalent to N3.

Personally, I have returned to Champion as I find NGK to be very fussy & prone to fowling/failure

[TurboTrev]

^^^^ Thanks.