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A dry build on a GP headset shows the rim is a good fit. However, the headset is stripped of paint and I guess, as has happened to me in the past, as soon as paint is applied the rim won’t be a good fit.

To all the regular paint sprayers amongst you, is there a way round this either by applying less paint to the headset or masking the very edge of the headset top and bottom?

The GP headset with only two securing screws is not very user friendly for those trying to avoid paint damage. Even if you reduce the headset lip on both halves for the rim to have clearance, the two in line fixing screws then try to tip the rim top or bottom to ride over the lip. Another Innocenti cost cutting excercise, no doubt.....

The only advice I can offer is to assemble leaving out the two main M5 screws that join the two halves then lastly fit them very carefully whilst keeping an eye on the (loosely, not quite tightly) fitted rim.

M5 SHCS (Socket Heas Cap Screws) are the best IMO for this job. Firstly, despite not being countersink, they bite into the head recess & never come loose, but, probably as important, with a ball ended driver, it is virtually impossible for the tool to slip like a screwdriver will in slotted screws. I've been using them since the 70's on all my headsets.

Not sure about the GP but the headlamp rim on an SX type headset is a bugger for damaging the paint. The problem is that Innocenti only applied a minimal thickness of thin celelose paint, most likey one of primer and 2 top coat. A half decent modern paint finish will have 2-3 coats of a highbuild primer, 3 or more coats of 2 pack acrylic and in some cases 2 or more coats of clear lacquer and all those coats are thicker than a coat of celly.

Ill be interested in the replies you get to this

Hmmh, yes. The lad who will be painting it enthusiastically told me about how he would lacquer over a basecoat. This got me thinking about the build up of paint and lacquer. I suppose that, with a white primer, if he were to put one less basecoat of red on the headset, it’ll end up a different shade to the rest of the bodywork though.

I have found with the GP rims they differ greatly. Scooter restorations used to sell original innocenti ones which needed rechroming. I found these fitted perfect even with metal flake. £20 to rechrome rim and jobs a gud un. No chance with remade rims unless you dremmel inside to fit. Which is fine. Bit more work on a sx rim I would have thought

Storkfoot wrote:Hmmh, yes. The lad who will be painting it enthusiastically told me about how he would lacquer over a basecoat. This got me thinking about the build up of paint and lacquer. I suppose that, with a white primer, if he were to put one less basecoat of red on the headset, it’ll end up a different shade to the rest of the bodywork though.

The biggest culprit will be the 2k primer which is very high build, 2 coats will cover the scatches left by 80 grit sand paper. He has the option to use a normal primer and shouldnt need clear coat over straight paint unless he is using water based

gizmo wrote:I have found with the GP rims they differ greatly. Scooter restorations used to sell original innocenti ones which needed rechroming. I found these fitted perfect even with metal flake. £20 to rechrome rim and jobs a gud un. No chance with remade rims unless you dremmel inside to fit. Which is fine. Bit more work on a sx rim I would have thought

I have an original GP rim which appears to be the same internal dimension as a remade one from Scootopia I also have.

I shall probably ask the painter to mask off the very edge when he gets to lacquering it and take the Dremel to the interior of the rim. We’ll see.

I have dremmeled the scootopia ones before. Can't tell when there on. This is the beauty of the lambretta . Headsets vary in size too so that adds to the fun. Nothing worse than a poor fitting rim. Looks awful