LCGB Forums

Not wanting to hijack someone else's thread- I thought it would be proper to put up my own. A couple of pictures of some sliding dogs I own, one OEM Innocenti , the other has no markings but its good quality . Now I've looked at the picture of the sliding dog in sticky's manual and both mine are more worn than the one pictured but surely they can be used- as is? reground square? or material added? here's the piccies

OEM innocenti one



the unmarked one


The width of the OEM on the legs is about 6.5mm and 7mm on the other, thanks Paul

Ha! Looks like just you & me interested in this topic then......

Judging the images, I would be prepared to machine them back for re-use. If I were you that is. I'm not volunteering
My current rides are probably 25 BHP minimum & 'torquey' & they have had no cursor issues.

As already mentioned, all six dogs need to be identical, so just take off the minimum of just the driving faces.

I was thinking about how the process could be made easier, & I suppose if the cursors were centralised & held static in a lathe with an indexing system, a grinder (or electric file!) could be affixed to the lathe saddle/cross-slide to obtain consistent results

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Ha! Looks like just you & me interested in this topic then......

Ha! yeah that seems to be the case WT I'm interested in giving it a go myself but as I'm only armed with a dremmel and a pretty decent set of needle files - my main concern is as you state , is getting each face identical , hmmm.... something to think about , thanks for the reply . Paul

You'll struggle against them with needle files i think. They are very hard.

dickie wrote:You'll struggle against them with needle files i think. They are very hard.

Yeah I can imagine , they would only be any good for cleaning up the surfaces

Did you check your driven shaft endfloat measurement before stripping it? This can also cause gears to jump if out of tolerance.

Fast n Furious wrote:Did you check your driven shaft endfloat measurement before stripping it? This can also cause gears to jump if out of tolerance.

Worth mentioning & the reason that I have engraved mine & keep them in a size order stack. Nominally in 0.025 mm (0.001") increments but with a '+' or '-' if appropriate to enable the optimum table for clean up & re--float clearance to be achieved. It really is chasing very small margins but means that 0.003" to 0.0035" can be achieved. Don't trust even more expensive, pre-engraved shims from the likes of dealers that almost claim to have invented the wheel either. Put your own stamp on them

Old, used thicker shims can be snuck into mates' workplaces that have a magnetic surface grinding o clean up to re-use.



Is it necessary? I think so through experience. I've known racers go less than 0.003" & lock up half way through a race. Pulling in the clutch won't save you then

Fast n Furious wrote:Did you check your driven shaft endfloat measurement before stripping it? This can also cause gears to jump if out of tolerance.

These are not from a stripped motor, just spares I've got lying about.