LCGB Forums

Anyone fitted one to a series 1 or 2.
The headlight comes with a laser cut ring that bolts to the reflector that can be held to the rim with the normal push over clips but the headlight sticks out the front of the rim by 10mm or more. To me it needs another ring cutting about 6mm thick to get the curve of the glass anything like a normal glass.
Have I got this wrong or what.
I have to say it looks a good bit of kit but getting a bit peeved always having to make things work.
Pici may help

Hi I fitted one on my series 1 and the only way I could get the headlight to sit correctly was to zip tie the original wiring block in the horn cone , had to use a longer earth wire . bit of fiddling but worth it .

avanti

avanti wrote:Hi I fitted one on my series 1 and the only way I could get the headlight to sit correctly was to zip tie the original wiring block in the horn cone , had to use a longer earth wire . bit of fiddling but worth it .

avanti

So if I understand this your headlight is not fitted to the rim? you have cable tied it to the stem?
The changing of the old bulb holder is not a problem as everything comes from the connector block anyway. I will add a nylon plug at a later date. I just cannot see a way of getting the lamp further back into the rim. As above the ribbed edge needs to go back into the rim.
Looking at making a ring but my sons borrowed my router, and my chain saw and my chisels.....

it doesn't protude quite that much once all fitted mate.

This is mine, I think it does protrude slightly more than the original but not massivly so.

Thanks Donnie
If I can get it back to the serrated bit I will be happy. Did you just turn the tabs down onto the laser cut ring or did you use a gasket from a standard rim?
Im working on a Monty bodge at the moment using a top cover from a spindle of 25 CDs. It just happens to be the correct diameter. work in progress..

Well it worked out quite well. it was a 6mm strip off the top of a CD spindle with the top cut out. its a perfect fit for the diameter of the rim and its translucent as well. The tabs are just long enough to hold the thing in place but I may put a bit of silicon rubber on the inside.
It will be one of those can you fit one on mine Monty and I will be off in the other direction

I just used the bits that were supplied mate and it seems to be ok.

avanti wrote:Hi I fitted one on my series 1 and the only way I could get the headlight to sit correctly was to zip tie the original wiring block in the horn cone , had to use a longer earth wire . bit of fiddling but worth it .

avanti

Now I understand. The connection block normally mounted to the frame wont let the ruddy thing sit deep enough into the horne casting on a series 1. The fact that I had my indicator flasher and a relay already in there caused a few problems also. I removed 1 bolt from the connector and stood it vertical, I dont want the back side to short out. Its in and yes its a bloody good headlight, the clear glass matches my pathfinder so it doesn't look to out of place

All in all a good buy but the normal fettling required so a 3 spanner job

ah! I assumed you'd removed the headlight junction box as theres nowhere near enough room for that in there with the headlight unit on my s2 and i would have thought less so on a S1

Looking at possibly getting one of these, is it a worth while upgrade and do you think it's value for money ?

Cheers.......................

My main need is a better light/beam will it do the job ?

Definitely mate.

Can anyone run me through the wiring on this headlight.

Many thanks.

Not too sure what you need to know, but does this pic help?

Nelly wrote:Not too sure what you need to know, but does this pic help?

Not really to be honest, but thanks all the same. I have a couple of wires of different colours, just looking for some help with that.

Thanks

All lamps have a feed supply and an earth so dont get too concerned about the colours on the new lamp. Your sidelight has a brown and black from my pici earlier, select 1 and take it to ground normally a white on the old connector block Your speedo and headlight rim should also be the same. The other should go to the yellow that supplied your old festoon bulb. ( I dont know if you are doing a series 1,2 or 3, if you still have your connection block or its just your bulb holder)
The headlight again has an earth marked common on the drawing shown by Nelly. Take one of the others to Your Blue and the other to the red dip and full beam. I wouldn't worry about which is which, if its not the way you used to have high and low beam swap them over.
As electrickery goes this is a simple job, getting it all to fit may be a challenge so take some pics and let us all see. Im still interested in fitting one to a TV/ special headset.
Monty

MK Monty wrote:All lamps have a feed supply and an earth so dont get too concerned about the colours on the new lamp. Your sidelight has a brown and black from my pici earlier, select 1 and take it to ground normally a white on the old connector block Your speedo and headlight rim should also be the same. The other should go to the yellow that supplied your old festoon bulb. ( I dont know if you are doing a series 1,2 or 3, if you still have your connection block or its just your bulb holder)
The headlight again has an earth marked common on the drawing shown by Nelly. Take one of the others to Your Blue and the other to the red dip and full beam. I wouldn't worry about which is which, if its not the way you used to have high and low beam swap them over.
As electrickery goes this is a simple job, getting it all to fit may be a challenge so take some pics and let us all see. Im still interested in fitting one to a TV/ special headset.
Monty

Many thanks for the pointers Monty, it's going in my series 2, I think you are right about getting it to fit that is the difficult part. Thinking of trimming down the bottom of the connector block !! What do you think ?

Not great at posting pics. I 'm afraid .

The trouble with series 1 and 2 connector blocks is that the terminals go through the plastic block so can short out if its not well secured. I opted for 1 bolt and mounted mine vertically but mine is a series 1 and its in the horncasting. Still not happy that it can vibrate loose and short at a a later date. Its just one of those you know it will sooner or later.
In the old days Ive replaced these connections with electrical junction blocks, not very factory spec but neither is a proper headlight.
I tend to solder and heat shrink everything I can but that stops you removing light switches or removing head sets easily. But how often do you do that

MK Monty wrote:......Im still interested in fitting one to a TV/ special headset.Monty

I'm fitting one to my Jet at the moment but making it more complicated by trying to fit an HID lamp at the same time. I'm going to have to cut and extend the wires to the ballast so that I can locate it behind the horncast.

Colin

I used the Wago lever connectors on my homebrew halogen conversion. It's basically a remade glass innocent marked headlight from SR, seriously reworked to take a standard car H4 headlamp. I used an Osram Nightbreaker and it's now on DC. I had the bike out for the first time in the dark last night and the light is now quite impressive!
Wago lever connectors are available in 2, 3 and 5 lever versions. I used a mixture of all of these in the head set.
Screwfix stock them, but only in boxes of 50 here
http://www.screwfix.com/p/2-way-lever-c ... f-50/97689
They are available on the likes of evilbay in lesser amounts.
I use loads of these and the push in versions in light fittings and control systems, much better than choccy blocks.

MK Monty wrote:
......Im still interested in fitting one to a TV/ special headset.Monty


I'm fitting one to my Jet at the moment but making it more complicated by trying to fit an HID lamp at the same time. I'm going to have to cut and extend the wires to the ballast so that I can locate it behind the horncast.

Colin
We are always pushing the boundarys aren't we. Colin
It's the pivot points spring and adjuster that I need to get my head around.
The wago connectors look good I have used similar at work do they lock and stay locked in use on a Lambretta Nelly