Chroming rear hub

[Bobblybob]

Having had to look to purchase a new rear hub after stripping the splines on my old one, (brakes started binding with heat and torque stripped the splines), I think I’ve decided on a new uni one. However, I can’t find one to purchase that is already fully chromed . Having had bad experiences with beedspeed in the past, can anyone recommend either A) a good source of a pre-chromed uni hub or B) good company that that can chrome my new one. Thanks.

[gaz_powell]

AF have them listed.

Likely it will be indian chrome

Consider the chrome powdercoat??

Chrome on alloy that is heating and cooling never works out well

[Bobblybob]

Thanks Gaz. My old one was chromed in the normal manner and never really had any problems. Had a look on the AF website but couldn’t find any as says out of stock . Also never thought of chrome powder coat. Thanks

[gizmo]

Quality chrome had them in stock or as gaz says powder coat. I've had chrome peel off hubs before

[hullygully]

Quality chrome had them in stock or as gaz says powder coat. I've had chrome peel off hubs before

just get one polished bud, then it'll last

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Whatever decision is made - chrome, powder coat, foil wrap etc - bear in mind why the splines broke up. They exist purely to ensure that the nut can be tightened on the layshaft to enable the hub to be forced onto the cone.

The fit on the cone is what does all the work if correctly tightened. The splines are the equivalent of a flywheel woodruff key & we all are aware of the hard learning process associated with the confusion about that…..

[L111amo]

Jees, I always thought they were to take load( like a gear) from shaft to wheel

[Bobblybob]

Thanks for all of the info. I have a chrome AF uni one now and starting to fit. I didn’t realise that the uni hub came with a cone, so also purchased a separate uni cone and shim washer. It turns out that the cone that came with the hub is slightly deeper (17.6 mm) then the separate uni cone which is 17 mm exactly. Both have the same 8° taper.

Do I fit the cone that came with the hub without a shim, or do I also add the shim, or do I fit the smaller width cone and Shim. Or does it even matter?

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Now would be a good opportunity to check front to wheel alignment which will help you answer your own question.

If you can bolt - not too tightly as to cause distortion - a straight piece of metal either side of the front wheel in situ, you will be able to check the back wheel alignment. Ideally, something like a couple of long spirit levels should be straight enough & a set of bare rims makes the task even easier, though tyres can temporarily be deflated…..

However, you can get away with bolting just the one straight piece to the rear wheel - again, not too tightly - to check alignment with the front wheel. You’ll soon suss out the logic of it but it’s best to switch any bar from nearside to offside as well as flipping the bar over as a perfectly straight bar can never exist……