LCGB Forums

Perfect timing.
I'm just cleaning the garage and stumbled across one.......


It's 50mm excluding the hex head. 10mm threaded.

Just measured one , 36mm of shank and 15mm of thread

drivera wrote:Just measured one , 36mm of shank and 15mm of thread

You've got 1mm more and you think that makes you the man. Well I've got news for you..... It's how you use it that counts.

I know

grumpar wrote:Thanks mines 51mm 36 and 15 more problems these forks are really starting to piss me off now i will probably have to have some made

Eh? I don't get it. You have 1mm more than me and 5mm more thread and mine were fine in my forks.

What do you mean by "lock washers"? There should be one star washer per link and a plain washer on the right side only as the cable guide does the job on the left leg.

Have you tried tightening them to the correct torque to see if the fork boot compresses a bit , they are only a 3 sided box section so can compress a tad ?

Is the tensile strenght of the stainless bolt the same,or greater,than the original?

dave411 wrote:Is the tensile strenght of the stainless bolt the same,or greater,than the original?

I don't mean to be a pedant but the important thing here is really shear strength. I don't know the original grade, but I doubt it would be an 8.8.

Assuming it was 8.8 though, that would have shear strength around 3.5 tonnes whereas an a4-70 (good but not exotic) is about half that.

Now that may make you think it's no good but how do you think you're going to put nearly 2tonnes through each of those bolts? Normal safety factor for this type of application is 3 so even allowing for shock loads, you could happily put 300kg through each of these bolts if they are a4-70.

I'd suggest that they are that diameter primarily because they act as a shaft for the link bush to turn on.

If you use longer bolts make sure that the tyre valve doesn't hit the end of the bolt when the wheel is rotated.