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This may be a silly question. I don`t know if it`s just me, but I cannot remove my rear wheel or replace it unless it has had all the air let out & even then it seems I have to jiggle it out chipping paint off the wheel & hub. Am I missing something? It seems to defeat the object of lugging a spare wheel around if you then need a pump as well!!
Life is easier with the wire clip of the series 3 scoots.
I am thinking of cutting a bit off the end of the panel clip, or maybe cutting the two prongs right off & somehow making them a bolt on fitting. Has anyone else done anything to make the wheel removal easier, & if so, what have you done & does it work please?

Cheers for any suggestions.

The wheel is supposed to be lowered once off the studs (use the rear engine stand).
Reducing the prongs does help but you will still need to let some air out.

Pete

you can modifiy the bracket into two interlocking pieces with a joint plate - it makes part of it demountable by unbolting it.

try a search on here

I use the indian API clip method on my S2 (same principle as S3)

Gaz

gaz_powell wrote:you can modifiy the bracket into two interlocking pieces with a joint plate - it makes part of it demountable by unbolting it.

try a search on here

I use the indian API clip method on my S2 (same principle as S3)

Gaz

But the clips are like hen's teeth.

If you remove the rear shock then lean the scooter over the engine will drop enough so you can remove the wheel no problem, offer up the new wheel at 90 degrees to the engine with the end of the foot board through the rim . Once the tyre is between the hub and mag housing turn the wheel into position, fit nuts, refit the shock, job done . Hope this makes sense . This method requires no mods and works with large tyres or standard .

Mel K wrote:If you remove the rear shock then lean the scooter over the engine will drop enough so you can remove the wheel no problem, offer up the new wheel at 90 degrees to the engine with the end of the foot board through the rim . Once the tyre is between the hub and mag housing turn the wheel into position, fit nuts, refit the shock, job done . Hope this makes sense . This method requires no mods and works with large tyres or standard .

Does this method require the use of the engine stand,if so,once the shock is removed then surely the frame drops,not the engine.And why do you have to lean the scooter.Sorry to appear so thick,but I dont quite understand.I own a series 2 and would like to learn this method just in case I have a flat tyre.

Hxpaul, no , don't use an engine stand or the scooter stand , just lean the scooter over, resting on its kickstart side footboard once the shock is removed.

I think that the best solution,as the official manual suggests,is to carry this piece of wood at the pillion seat,all the time

Dimitrios way would eliminate the hassle of taking the shock off but you would have to answer the question, how come you've got wood? At rallies and rideouts !

Thanks for all your thoughts on the different ways of doing this lads. I did use the engine jack to hold the scoot up & it doesn`t give much height to drop the wheel really & I thought about laying the scoot over but didn`t like the thought of messing up paintwork or maybe straining the kickstart.
If it had to be done at the side of the road there might not be a suitable grassy verge close without a long push perhaps & as I`m getting on a bit it might come as a bit of a shock to the system! (or even too much for it!)
It would be a bit of faffing about, but I keep coming back to the following thought:- Get another clip (the bit that`s welded to the frame with a two pronged fork at each end) - they`re only a few quid if you can find one. Then (this is the scarey bit that I`m a bit reluctant to do!!!!) cut the nearside fork off the scoot where it is welded at its base onto the channel of the clip. From the spare clip, cut the fork & as long a straight bit of the arm welded to the fork as possible & clamp it onto the cut arm on the scoot so the forked end is back in its original position. Then drill a hole through the bottom of the channels so the two bits can be bolted tightly together. That way, if the wheel needs to come off, the bolts could be undone to remove the forked end & there`d be heaps of room to get the wheel through & an inflated one back on surely?
Has anyone tried that & if so does it work ok? If I had a rough old bike I`d have no hesitation trying it, but come to think of it my paintwork is all chipped on the rear hub & wheel rim now after changing the tyre, so maybe...............

Mel K wrote:Hxpaul, no , don't use an engine stand or the scooter stand , just lean the scooter over, resting on its kickstart side footboard once the shock is removed.

I get it now remove the shock,put the scooter on its side and the engine drops leaving room to remove the wheel.

When I had my candy red painted S1, I used to carry a 27mm socket, extendable wrench and rear hub puller.
I favoured taking the hub and wheel off as one unit, rather than scratching my paint.

Shaun wrote:When I had my candy red painted S1, I used to carry a 27mm socket, extendable wrench and rear hub puller.
I favoured taking the hub and wheel off as one unit, rather than scratching my paint.

Good call

Digger "But the clips are like hen's teeth” #

My rally going mentality dictates ease of work on the side of the road - when changing a wheel it needs to be as easy as possible.

The mod desribed is invisble when the panel is on and virtually unseen when the the panels off

# when built me s2 last year remade ones were readily availble - I bought one as I was going to the conversion and bolt it to the frame instead of welding. Again my rally going mentaility made me use the API/S3 style clip method.

Horses for courses .....

Hi Gaz, when you replied on Thursday (19th) you said there was a modification & wrote "Try a search on here" - should there have been a link shown or has it not been included for some reason? Can you point me in the direction of a photo showing the mod. please? Cheers.

2ndtimearound wrote:Hi Gaz, when you replied on Thursday (19th) you said there was a modification & wrote "Try a search on here" - should there have been a link shown or has it not been included for some reason? Can you point me in the direction of a photo showing the mod. please? Cheers.

Gary's right there was a thread where someone had modded a series 2 panel bracket to make it easier getting the rear wheel of I think it must have been on the old forum as I can't seem to find it was a good mod though

I modified the rear bracket by sawing it half way along, drill a 6mm hole in each piece and use a short piece of alloy to bolt through and hold the bracket in place, I'll try and post a pic later

mickyb wrote:I modified the rear bracket by sawing it half way along, drill a 6mm hole in each piece and use a short piece of alloy to bolt through and hold the bracket in place, I'll try and post a pic later

I have a similar method , will take a pic or 2

mickyb wrote:I modified the rear bracket by sawing it half way along, drill a 6mm hole in each piece and use a short piece of alloy to bolt through and hold the bracket in place, I'll try and post a pic later

And that's exactly what I had to do on my S2TV also. Had a puncture two weeks ago and was able to change the rear wheel with the spare in about ten minutes by unbolting the bracket, changing the wheel and then bolting the bracket back on. Very simple mod and is hardly noticeable with the panel off and, of course, unnoticeable with the panel on.

Gary Harwood wrote:

mickyb wrote:I modified the rear bracket by sawing it half way along, drill a 6mm hole in each piece and use a short piece of alloy to bolt through and hold the bracket in place, I'll try and post a pic later

And that's exactly what I had to do on my S2TV also. Had a puncture two weeks ago and was able to change the rear wheel with the spare in about ten minutes by unbolting the bracket, changing the wheel and then bolting the bracket back on. Very simple mod and is hardly noticeable with the panel off and, of course, unnoticeable with the panel on.

Can you post a picture of the mod ?