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Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:05 pm
by gp200ts1
Run full dc wassel conversions on both my gp and series 2. Why is it when the scoot is used at night the battery runs down and I lose lights? They both run led rear/brake lights and 35 watt headlights. Both scoots run acewell speedos and the gp has a fuel gauge too. Surely there should be lighting even if the battery runs low? The batteries are yuasa 7.2ah

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:27 pm
by coaster
The battery will run low if you do a lot of slow or town riding but all that should happen is that the lights revert to running direct from the stator and will get brighter/dimmer according to engine revs. If you are losing all your lights then you need to check the stator output on the 2 yellows (disconnected you should get around 30 volts AC when revved. If that all checks out ok then check the charge across the battery, you should see 13 - 14 volts across the battery with the lights off which should still read around 13 volts with them on.

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:37 pm
by MickYork
As Coaster says check the stator output. The lights should run fine without a battery fitted, the power from the stator should be enough. It looks like the stator power isn't enough to power your lights and it's relying on the power you've charged in your battery (through the day) to power them.

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:23 pm
by Nelly
Is it doing the same on both scoots?
Seems a bit strange.

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:06 pm
by mickyb
How old are your batteries. Mine was 3 years old and just died, wouldn't even take a charge from a charger

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:27 pm
by MK Monty
Sounds like the stator output is not connected to the lighting circuit at all so you are simply draining the battery. The black from the wassle needs to go to ground the 2 stator yellows to the wassle (doesn't mater which) then the red connected to the brown loom off up to the headset. you will also need to connect the purple at either one end or the other. The feed from the red and brown should also go to the positive on the battery with the battery ground with something like a 5 amp fuse.
Personally I don't like the single brown feed that stops off at the rear brake switch as found on a lot of the simplified looms. If you have fitted any kind of isolator to turn off your acewells when not in use I would have a look there. I have done it with a DC relay that only turns on the battery when the rear light is on so everything is isolated till I turn on the lights on the first click.(I had to fit a small capacitor for the relay to work reliably) I have also done it using the ignition switch but you have to ride with lights on all the time.
Start the scooter lights on and disconnect the battery your lights should still work but dim a bit on tickover

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 4:31 am
by gp200ts1
All the wires from the loom go to the common junction junction box at the panel strut, the red from the battery plugs in there and the red from the wassel. If I disconnect the battery the lights become non existant. Checked the output from the wassel with a headlamp battery wired in on tick over and it's bright

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:20 am
by MickYork
Must be a bad connection, either earth or power.

Re: Full DC problems

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:13 pm
by grandpa
coaster wrote:The battery will run low if you do a lot of slow or town riding but all that should happen is that the lights revert to running direct from the stator and will get brighter/dimmer according to engine revs. If you are losing all your lights then you need to check the stator output on the 2 yellows (disconnected you should get around 30 volts AC when revved. If that all checks out ok then check the charge across the battery, you should see 13 - 14 volts across the battery with the lights off which should still read around 13 volts with them on.

Hi,
As coaster points out you should be getting around 30 volts AC but you also need to check that the stator can handle a load. A torch may have a 12volt battery but it would not start a car because of insufficient amps.If you connect a car 55watt car headlight to the two yellow wires and run the engine it should shine brightly. watts =volts x amps (55=12x4.58)so if it can handle the car bulb it shows that around 4 amps is being produced.You can pick up a h4 car headlight at your local pound shop (rather than stripping the front end of your car to get at bulb :lol: )If I switch off my battery my lights still work when engine running on my two wassell GPs.
Grandpa