LCGB Forums

[attachment=2]After my heat seize here are pics of my barrel.....???
is it poorly or should I carry on with it....????

It is poorly. Have you got pictures of the piston?

yes but having trouble up loading....
going too cambridge lambretta tommorow, thinking of getting
a mugello kit?

Just remember that these sorts of seizures can instantly wreck a plated alloy barrel and require you to spend over £200 to put it right, whereas £50 can see you buy a new piston for a standard barrel. More importantly, unless you sort out the issues that are causing this to happen, you will do the same again with an alloy barrel. You need to resolve the issues as simply changing to an alloy barrel is not a miracle cure that somehow resolves issues with clearance, compression, ignition timing or jetting.

Buying a kit is likely to be the tip of the cost iceberg. You then need to buy all the other bits, fit it yourself and resolve the issues or pay a dealer a good hourly rate to fit it, then spend hours testing and adjusting elements to cure the issues.

Please note that I am saying this as I've seen so many people try to buy their way around issues, spending a huge amount of money on parts, but simply ending up with a bike that is poorly assembled and set up, whilst reliability still eludes them

Adam

It is true that alloy kits like the Mugello are more forgiving in that you don't have to run them in for a 1000 miles (although this is dependent on how much clearance they had in the first place). However, if they are set up wrong, you'll get an expensive hole in the piston and a big gouge in your nikasil.

From the pics of the barrel, this looks as though it may just need a bit of wet and dry to clean it up. However, there looks plenty of your piston left on the barrel so I suspect the piston might not look so clever

Don't be bounced into buying the Mugello. There are plenty of good 185 kits out there. Canvas opinion first (GT 186 is better IMO )

Wouldn't a gt186 leak like a teabag on 200 casings?

Good spot

stick with the iron GP barrel, a good hone and a clean up on the old piston (providing it isn't too shagged) should see you right. Adam is right, you could spend mega coin on a tuned top-end only for the same thing to happen or worse. Paul

Adam_Winstone wrote:Just remember that these sorts of seizures can instantly wreck a plated alloy barrel and require you to spend over £200 to put it right, whereas £50 can see you buy a new piston for a standard barrel. More importantly, unless you sort out the issues that are causing this to happen, you will do the same again with an alloy barrel. You need to resolve the issues as simply changing to an alloy barrel is not a miracle cure that somehow resolves issues with clearance, compression, ignition timing or jetting.

Buying a kit is likely to be the tip of the cost iceberg. You then need to buy all the other bits, fit it yourself and resolve the issues or pay a dealer a good hourly rate to fit it, then spend hours testing and adjusting elements to cure the issues.

Please note that I am saying this as I've seen so many people try to buy their way around issues, spending a huge amount of money on parts, but simply ending up with a bike that is poorly assembled and set up, whilst reliability still eludes them

Adam

Appreciate your reply, and fully understand the amount of issues that may arise, but im sure the reason for my heat seize was wrong mix oil/fuel
and using cheap 2 stroke oil...

TBH a well set up 2-stroke should run on just about anything, the key being setup. Cheap oil... best Eden and I don't give you our views on that

Many years ago in Scootering there was a great write up about a couple of guys touring Vietnam on rented SX150s (anyone on here?), with them resorting to running them on a petrol + suntan oil mix, as that was the only oil that they could get their hands on.

Eden and I both have experience of thousands of miles touring Europe on iron barrels, ranging from standard to the exotic, so both know the importance of setup and assembly tolerances and would say that these are the key to a reliable motor. I'm not suggesting that you don't go and buy another kit, if that's what you want to do, but am stressing that the issues that made this seize will not be addressed by swapping kits. As you've said, if oil was the factor here, then oil would also have the same result on any other kit. Likewise, jetting, timing, compression, air leaks, etc. will not change just from a swap of barrel, piston and head... meaning that you could be showing us a similar photo of the next seized top end.

Whichever way you decide to go, good luck with it and don't forget that there are a lot of people on here that will give you advice (of mixed quality... mine included ) , which may/may not help.

All the best.

Adam

Good advice Adam (as ever).

Gary, have you thought about contacting Steve Last at Sudbury? He builds good engines and he's not got a vested interest in selling you the latest kit. He does old school iron barrels, not just the latest nicasil item on the market.

Remember, plenty of people have ridden iron barrelled scooters across Europe without issues (even I did it this year) so iron barrels are a viable option. In fact, it is just the way Mr Innocenti intended.

Good luck, and as Adam says, there is plenty of help available through this site.

Knowledge wrote:Good advice Adam (as ever).

Gary, have you thought about contacting Steve Last at Sudbury? He builds good engines and he's not got a vested interest in selling you the latest kit. He does old school iron barrels, not just the latest nicasil item on the market.

Remember, plenty of people have ridden iron barrelled scooters across Europe without issues (even I did it this year) so iron barrels are a viable option. In fact, it is just the way Mr Innocenti intended.

Good luck, and as Adam says, there is plenty of help available through this site.

Thanks for info.....I dont know Steve Last, but if you could give me a contact, be much appreciated...