LCGB Forums

Any thoughts on using the polycarbonate headlights to the normal glass type.

If we are talking standard and I'm talking li special round type I have had both the glass I found was better than the plastic but spreads the light around as Lami headlights are crude at best. I have a clear Jocky Boxenstop poly carbonate with a HID conversion and it's amazing. I have a list a mile long of mates who say it will melt. We will see.

MK Monty wrote:If we are talking standard and I'm talking li special round type I have had both the glass I found was better than the plastic but spreads the light around as Lami headlights are crude at best. I have a clear Jocky Boxenstop poly carbonate with a HID conversion and it's amazing. I have a list a mile long of mates who say it will melt. We will see.

My HID hasn't Monty and it's done around 2000 miles (I run with H/lamp on permanent). I'd say it is a fair bit cooler than a Halogen

I'm not worried about it melting either. It's not all been plain sailing mine has a habit of turning off especially if I Change from low to high beam. Once off I have to turn the ignition off then on again. As my lights are on all the time once I go to the 2nd position on the switch it's a bit annoying. On my wiring I took the power from the old h4 headlight but it also had a 2nd fused power feed that should have gone to the battery. I took mine from the loom. It seems to be related to low power and I think the ballast is dropping out when I change from high and low beam as the power goes off for an instant. It's one of those I will have a look over winter jobs. Still a great light though and even though the jockey unit was a pain to fit a good 80 quids worth.

MK Monty wrote:I'm not worried about it melting either. It's not all been plain sailing mine has a habit of turning off especially if I Change from low to high beam. Once off I have to turn the ignition off then on again. As my lights are on all the time once I go to the 2nd position on the switch it's a bit annoying. On my wiring I took the power from the old h4 headlight but it also had a 2nd fused power feed that should have gone to the battery. I took mine from the loom. It seems to be related to low power and I think the ballast is dropping out when I change from high and low beam as the power goes off for an instant. It's one of those I will have a look over winter jobs. Still a great light though and even though the jockey unit was a pain to fit a good 80 quids worth.

What problems did you encounter fitting it, I am thinking about fitting one in my series 2.

Mine went on a series 1, the main problem was that the new one protruded too far out the front of the rim so it looked odd. I ended up making a spacer out of a bulk cd case to fit in the rim first then the reflector sat correctly looking the same as an original. The tabs of the rim were then a bit short so I used a bit of silicon. Then the ruddy thing fouled the connection block. Basic fettling in the world of Lambrettas. Others with series 2 had no problem and I understand Jockey does a laser cut rim for specials.a bloody good light even with a normal bulb

MK Monty wrote:Mine went on a series 1, the main problem was that the new one protruded too far out the front of the rim so it looked odd. I ended up making a spacer out of a bulk cd case to fit in the rim first then the reflector sat correctly looking the same as an original. The tabs of the rim were then a bit short so I used a bit of silicon. Then the ruddy thing fouled the connection block. Basic fettling in the world of Lambrettas. Others with series 2 had no problem and I understand Jockey does a laser cut rim for specials.a bloody good light even with a normal bulb

Thanks

MK Monty wrote:....... mine has a habit of turning off especially if I Change from low to high beam. Once off I have to turn the ignition off then on again.

Mine is a little slow when first switched on but has been fine until the terminal fell off my battery on the Derby 150 causing the light to flicker on and off at low revs (the lamp was also flicking up and down at the same time . When I eventually got the battery connection to stay on I noticed that the high beam indicator was staying on all the time even when dipped The headlight was still operating though but when I got home I changed the ballast unit for the spare I had and it's all working normally again

colin

Colin,
Sounds like mine is similar i think it needs the constant battery supply to keep it fired when you switch between Hi and low beam as the same lamp is used and the old headlight feed is used to flick flap the lamp up and down. Again low tickover lets it drop out and it needs a power off on to reset. I put ballast in the space for the horn but mine had a large multi pinned relay that was even bigger than the ballast and its all crammed in. I want to remove the relay and put it on the back of the toolbox next to the battery and redo the cable with the longer one supplied for the 2nd headlight. Great price and you get a spare set to have a play with.

I did the Jet with the £4.99 HID kit I got off ebay but about a year ago I bought a set for my Marcos but had decided not to use (reeded lenses). That set also had a relay as well as a plug with an H4 connector for plugging into the car's wiring. I needed to convert my LiS to HID as well so decided to use one of the 2 slim ballasts and one of the HID units, I didn't need the relay but I did source some extended leads so that this time I wouldn't need to cut and join any wires.

I fitted one of the Bosatta GP headlight units with the plastic lens to my GP. In all fairness the dip beam is focussed. But I find that of very limited use. While the high beam is weak and diffuse and actually quite dangerous I think. It's very difficult to see anything. I'm going to try another bulb just in case. But I'm not optimistic.