LCGB Forums

I've been having a problem with my TSR Evo exhaust rubbing on the side panel of my S2 (S3 Lis engine).

I have noticed that the engine mount rubber on the kickstart side looks out of shape with the engine bolt being almost right at the top of the rubber whilst the carb side one is pretty central. This makes the scooter engine sit slightly at an angle so I'm guessing it is knackered! It also won't be helping the exhaust issue as it means it sits closer to the side panel than it otherwise would.

Changing engine mounts isn't something I've done before and after reading different threads on whose is best etc I'm pretty confused!

What would be the best all round product to use and avoid bad fitting parts etc? Is it worth shelling out for the BGM ones or will 'standard' offerings suffice? Also, I will have to buy a tool to do it so once again, is it worth buying the BGM one if its not going to get much use or will a £25 off eBay type do the same job just as well?

If it makes a difference, the existing ones have two holes and the engine is a 190 stage 4/5 ish.

Would be grateful for a simple answer,

Thanks

Hugh.

Tools:

I used an ebay extractor, came as part of a tool group.

Needed some filing to ensure it sat square to the engine castings, but worked well enough. Pulled the new 2 hole wide mounts back in nicely.
Mounts came from Scooter Restorations as direct replacements for the TV3 scooter which I have.

Sounds good enough for me, thanks

Hughieboy wrote:I've been having a problem with my TSR Evo exhaust rubbing on the side panel of my S2 (S3 Lis engine).

I have noticed that the engine mount rubber on the kickstart side looks out of shape with the engine bolt being almost right at the top of the rubber whilst the carb side one is pretty central. This makes the scooter engine sit slightly at an angle so I'm guessing it is knackered! It also won't be helping the exhaust issue as it means it sits closer to the side panel than it otherwise would.

Changing engine mounts isn't something I've done before and after reading different threads on whose is best etc I'm pretty confused!

What would be the best all round product to use and avoid bad fitting parts etc? Is it worth shelling out for the BGM ones or will 'standard' offerings suffice? Also, I will have to buy a tool to do it so once again, is it worth buying the BGM one if its not going to get much use or will a £25 off eBay type do the same job just as well?

If it makes a difference, the existing ones have two holes and the engine is a 190 stage 4/5 ish.

Would be grateful for a simple answer,

Thanks

Hugh.

I've just got a pair from AF.The carb side is a standard GP one and the kickstart side is a double one and is less likely to colapse.

Curiosity got the better of me and I've plumped for the BGM ones along with the BGM tool from Scooter Center.... £ to € rates at present helped that decision along....!

I had a great tip off here,use a hot air gun to warm the casing,not a naked flame.It did the job perfectly,both came out easily,do the same to put the new ones in.I only have a cheap tool to

dave411 wrote:I had a great tip off here,use a hot air gun to warm the casing,not a naked flame.It did the job perfectly,both came out easily,do the same to put the new ones in.I only have a cheap tool to

Sounds like a plan Dave!

Hi hughieboy.
I used a £14 tool from ebay ( cant see it this time but he frequently advertises) with SIL silent blocks. I found the heat from gas blow lamp quickly transferred to the silent block which then expanded and jammed about a third of the way in I removed the silent block and used emery paper for a few minutes to reduce the diameter minutely and tried again .After the third attempt the silent block was fitted. the same happened on the other side. I was constantly aware of damage to the casing by forcing it unduly.Better to bu**er up your silent blocks than wreck your casing.
Hope this is of some help
Grandpa

grandpa wrote:Hi hughieboy.
I used a £14 tool from ebay ( cant see it this time but he frequently advertises) with SIL silent blocks. I found the heat from gas blow lamp quickly transferred to the silent block which then expanded and jammed about a third of the way in I removed the silent block and used emery paper for a few minutes to reduce the diameter minutely and tried again .After the third attempt the silent block was fitted. the same happened on the other side. I was constantly aware of damage to the casing by forcing it unduly.Better to bu**er up your silent blocks than wreck your casing.
Hope this is of some help
Grandpa

Thanks Grandpa

I think I'll use my heat gun father than a blow lamp (too near the fuel tank for my liking..!) and bearing in mind what you say, maybe it would be an idea to put the new silent blocks in the freezer for a bit, heat the engine mounts and then work quickly..... It might work!

Hugh.