LCGB Forums

Troops -- anyone know how to or have the tool to adjust an Rear R1 Shocky? I'll try to post a photo of its current setting.

Also -- might sound dumb with will any adjustment make a difference to the riding height of the bike or just the tension? Mine I think is set real tight

Ta Muchly - G

It will only adjust the tension, the length of the shock will not change. I found that mine was easy to turn using a pair of 'Pipe' pliers with a piece of cloth to protect the shock body.

coaster wrote:It will only adjust the tension, the length of the shock will not change. I found that mine was easy to turn using a pair of 'Pipe' pliers with a piece of cloth to protect the shock body.

Cheers Coaster -- did you have to take the shocky off to do that or could you do it in situ? Thanks Grant

Granty wrote:

coaster wrote:It will only adjust the tension, the length of the shock will not change. I found that mine was easy to turn using a pair of 'Pipe' pliers with a piece of cloth to protect the shock body.

Cheers Coaster -- did you have to take the shocky off to do that or could you do it in situ? Thanks Grant

I did it in situ on the Derby 150 back in September as my end can bracket was sawing a slot in my side panel I turned the adjusting ramp to the stiffest position (this took seconds) and it did make a difference but mine really needs a slightly stiffer spring.

It's far easier to adjust the compression damping up if carrying a passenger etc. Couple of clicks and your done as I've found that the rear is too hard by adding more preload to the spring. The correct way to set one up on an R1 is to lift the rear end to max and measure, then measure at rest. There should be 5 mm of sag but even with a 180 lb spring on a Lambretta this can't be achieved. Personally being a light weight , I would like a softer spring then use the adjusters but I'm not aware of a softer one?

Wack wrote:It's far easier to adjust the compression damping up if carrying a passenger etc. Couple of clicks and your done as I've found that the rear is too hard by adding more preload to the spring. The correct way to set one up on an R1 is to lift the rear end to max and measure, then measure at rest. There should be 5 mm of sag but even with a 180 lb spring on a Lambretta this can't be achieved. Personally being a light weight , I would like a softer spring then use the adjusters but I'm not aware of a softer one?

Interesting Wack, which way should the damping screw be turned to harden the damper?

Don't know if this helps or not - its when I used when I had one fitted.Used it when I had set the spring pre-load to then adjust the rebound and compression

Thanks for that Dave Tomo. There are two types of R1 shock,both early versions .The first has a chrome pre load adjuster and the later 2000 on model is aluminium,with more clicks on the adjusters.Both are the same as to altering,ie anti clockwise to soften.Also when fitting the shock don't forget to tighten the nuts with loctite,then back off a bit to allow the shock to rotate on the mounts as the suspension travels.

Wack wrote:Thanks for that Dave Tomo. There are two types of R1 shock,both early versions .The first has a chrome pre load adjuster and the later 2000 on model is aluminium,with more clicks on the adjusters.Both are the same as to altering,ie anti clockwise to soften.Also when fitting the shock don't forget to tighten the nuts with loctite,then back off a bit to allow the shock to rotate on the mounts as the suspension travels.

Thanks Dave and Wack, top advice there. I have the nylon bushes in mine and use the nyloc half nuts both tightened then backed off a couple of turns (loctited). On a long trip round Germany earlier this year, the kickstart side silent block collapsed and I got paranoid about the twisting loading of the shock amd possible fracture. I have now fitted an extended mount on that side whioch has tightened things up no end

Colin