LCGB Forums

Hi all
I'm stumped with this and would appreciate any advice or suggestions please.
I have an Eibar winter model, which as far as I can tell has an unusual headset - it looks like a SX headset but switch housing is closer to Series 2 size.
I did have a semi hydraulic conversion with a ZIP master cylinder located under the horncast. a cable ran from the brake lever to this and after bit of faffing the hydraulic hose ran through the turning mudguard to the disc brake on the front wheel.
Anyway - its crap - really spongy and seams to loose tension quickly, forever adjusting it and basically I have no confidence in it.
I have fully hydraulic on my GP (I do need to post on the thread about having more than 1 scooter) and decided to do likewise on this scooter.
problem is, (besides my own incompetence) I've also got indicators on the Eibar operated by an Indian GP trapezium switch. I cant find a hydraulic switch housing with trapezium switch that will fit. Is there anything I can do besides bolting on a separate motorbike style indicator switch please?
As ever all and any advice is greatly received.

What about using an li type switch? Use an ignition switch to switch the lights on and use the li type switch for the dip and main beam and the switch that turned the headlight or sidelight on and off can be used for the indicators

The headset is normal for a Spanish winter model.

Thanks guys.
The key for lights & lights for indicators is an ace idea.
As for switch housing, I thought s series 2 or 3 would fit. The 1 I have doesn't so will get it swapped, see if that fits & report back.
Thanks again
Mike

Speak to Buzz at Buzzsolomoto about the switch top bloke.
Cheers Shane.

Buzz was my 1st call but they don't have any & nor are they getting any made, to be viable they would need to get more made than there are actual winter models!

Got a grimeca hidden master on my series 3 feels good not spongy but I did use piano wire instead of normal Bowden multi strand cable ( no stretch ) was a bit of a pig to bleed but got there in end I also fitted a brake light banjo switch

You can now get a master cylinder with an adapter that bolts directly to your existing light switch housing so no need to change anything or touch the wiring. It bolts on via the existing brake lever hole. There are just 2 versions, one that fits S1 and S2 switches and one that fits all the S3 / GP models.

steve t wrote:Got a grimeca hidden master on my series 3 feels good not spongy but I did use piano wire instead of normal Bowden multi strand cable ( no stretch ) was a bit of a pig to bleed but got there in end I also fitted a brake light banjo switch

How did you make the ends off on the piano wire? Did you fit pear shaped solder nipples?

I don't think trunnions as used on gear or clutch cables would be very wise on brake cables.

I cut a bolt down think it was m8 used the shoulder of the bolt ( not a set screw ) for the lever end drilled a hole for the wire to go through and silver soldered the piano wire to the homemade trunnion silver solder is very strong, and used 2 solder less nipples on master cyl end ( belt and braces ). Vast improvement on my first attempt with Bowden no stretch hope this helps .

I like the sound of this adaptor. My lack of imagination means I can't visualise how the hydraulic lever will work. Who / where is this sold please? It sounds perfect!
Thanks again
Mike

mickey c wrote:I like the sound of this adaptor. My lack of imagination means I can't visualise how the hydraulic lever will work. Who / where is this sold please? It sounds perfect!
Thanks again
Mike

Maybe you can make it out from this photo

Meant to mention in earlier post these grimeca master cylinders are easier to bleed with out the cable connected activate the lever manually then you can get full travel on master also when connecting cable make sure you leave enough free play or brakes will bind on when they get warm I found out the hard way I made a master mounting bracket out of some 4mm ally plate you do see them on eBay occasionally or push the boat out and buy one in photo above they look very good .too good for something you can't see

Thanks again guys but I've got a grimeca cylinder under my horn cast but I'm not as confident in this semi hydraulic set up as the full hydraulic on my GP. The bracket Corrado mentions sounds just what I'm after, can anyone point me to one of these please?

Fitted a hydraulic front end to both mine and a mates winter models. As Buzz says currently there are no converted S2 width light switch housings to take the S3 trapezoidal winter light switches, and again like he says its simply not affordable to get them made. So the only alternatives were to get the originals welded, or to fit S1/S2 converted light switch housings, and keep the original housings and switches somewhere safe. This also meant buying the S1/2 light switch as well, but that's a small price to pay for decent brakes in my eyes

Jockeys boxenstop make a nice cylinder/switch housing for the winter model, got one ready to go on mine.

http://www.jockeys-boxenstop.de/shop/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=winter+model

Neat, I notice it's got the built in reservoir too. Also means that you don't have to buy an S1/S2 light switch too, which needs to be factored in when pricing the conversion.

I am sure that will be a quality item given other stuff I've had off them & heard but alas £150 + postage is beyond my current budget! I appreciate no price on being able to stop, hopefully I have s more cost effective solution & will report back when I've got & fitted it.

These pictures should be self explanatory.

Maybe not quite so...

What stops that rotating round the lever bolt?