LCGB Forums

Thought i'd tension my chain up ready for the Euro, plus I've been hearing a noise which I couldn't identify.

drained the oil and got a shock at they grey/silver oil coming out. lots of shiny bits as well.

took the side casing off and.......



The chain tensioners come loose and jammed under the chain. the tensioners buggered as it's now 2 very deep grooves in it and the plate itself is scored.

Obviously don't know how long it's been like this just grateful it didn't jam everything up.

Found one screw wedged under the kickstart ramp but no sign of the other, presume it got chewed up.

Just did a nice blast on it yesterday ....... feeling lucky about that now looking at the mess in the casing.

Bloody hell mick that was lucky !!

it's amazing just what can go wrong yet it still runs!!

Over many years, I’ve modified & made tensioners for the top chain run. I hesitate to reveal some of my designs, as the ‘World & his Wife’ seem to be jumping on the bandwagon in knocking up ‘new stuff’ for Lambrettas, & undoubtedly making a few quid from it.

However, I would point out with good reason that Innocenti very obviously utilised a mechanical retaining device for the fasteners of their chain tensioners. With a somewhat cynical eye I have observed that many aftermarket products do not rely on the equivalent of a lock tab washer for either hole, let alone both as OEM components did.

In this instance where something has gone horribly wrong, fortunately without catastrophic consequences, there are lessons to be learnt in using caution.

I would strongly advocate that designs are selected that do not include risk in conjunction with ‘best practice’ when it comes to the fitting of any item to your Lambretta.

With that type of tensioner I fit a stud, penny washer and locknut in the lower casing hole then use a countersunk Allen screw with Loctite on the top one if using as a pull down.

Wack wrote:With that type of tensioner I fit a stud, penny washer and locknut in the lower casing hole then use a countersunk Allen screw with Loctite on the top one if using as a pull down.

+1^

With that type of tensioner I fit a stud, penny washer and locknut in the lower casing hole then use a countersunk Allen screw with Loctite on the top one if using as a pull down.

There is very little option to using a countersunk screw in the top hole & given the best circumstances of thread quality, cleanliness, tightness & tools, they should stay put.

However, it is hardly ideal to use a countersunk screw in the slotted type in which it can only make contact @ two points. I would hope you would agree with that.

I would prefer the adjustment be taken into account & designed to be done elsewhere within the component so that it obviated the need for a countersunk slot, even if a countersunk screw was still required.

I’m not saying that the products of that type are not any good; it is just that a problem is more likely to be encountered in their use. I would hope you would agree with that, too.