LCGB Forums

I'm sure this is something stupid.

I've just started on a new motor, mostly new parts. I've fitted the kickstart shaft to the casing but it won't turn as the spring is catching on the ribs around the inside of the boss.



GP casing, shaft and spring. The kinked in end is in the shaft as described in the book.

What am I missing?

That kick-start shaft looks like it might have been a ‘bargain!’

Is it ‘brand new from India’ by any chance?

I’d suspect that its hole for the spring to engage is in the wrong place &/or the crankcase cover if it came from the same source….

I think it was new SIL from restos, unless I dug out the wrong one...

The casings definitely were

i have been encountering this with a couple of builds, and not only with indian shafts, have resorted to grinding the end of the ribs.

i thought i saw a similar post where it was mentioned 2 sizes of spring ?

There is, the GP one has a kinked in end and the Li one doesn't

Or is the spring upside down?

not according to Sticky's book - the kinked-in end goes in the shaft

I'll pull it to bits again tonight and see if I can sort it out. I have another old shaft with damaged splines I can check it against somewhere

There is 2 different springs as I had the same problem. Make sure the shim is in with the circlip on the shaft.
Stag

Ok I think I might have got to the bottom of this.

I've been digging in the shed. Here's three springs -



Top one is Li, no kink, smaller.

Middle is an old worn GP one been rubbing on the clutch. Larger with kink.

Bottom is the new one, GP with kink.

This pic shows the worn spring top, next to the new one.



Here's the Li one in an Li casing, right and the GP one, left.



There's no difference in the positioning of the recess in the casing.



Looking at the both the Li casings I found it definitely seems that it's common for the spring to rub on these ribs.





Anyway to cut to the chase I tried the old worn shaft in the casing and it seems fine. I checked the dimensions on the shafts and these are the same. The one difference seems to be the depth of the hole in the shaft for the spring. On the SIL one it's not deep enough. This appears to be enough to force the kinked part of the spring into the ribs.





Thanks for everyone's input, tomorrow I'll drill it deeper and update.

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:That kick-start shaft looks like it might have been a ‘bargain!’

Is it ‘brand new from India’ by any chance?

I’d suspect that its hole for the spring to engage is in the wrong place &/or the crankcase cover if it came from the same source….

Further update, looks like WT1 was right, that is a bargain bucket shaft.

While looking for something else I've turned up the SIL shaft.

Much better quality.

I’m pleased that you appear to have got it sorted. We all stand to gain from the shared wisdom.

Coincidentally, I’ve got a B & D workmate customised like yours!

But I don’t have access to a pussy to stroke @ the moment, but I’m working on that….

I hadn't spotted him there. He is completely unphaseable. Sometimes find him in the street staring down cars.

Never say never with Innocenti parts.
I have NOS 55.5mm I/D S1/S2 springs with kinked end.

I also have a 62mm I/D double kinked spring

I usually smooth with a dremel tool the ends of remade springs so that they will fully fit in the shaft.

Good bit of detective work there. It's good when you get to the bottom of a problem like that, isn't it?

Final update, all gone together properly now.





Amazing how that happens with decent parts...

Thanks again to all for your input.

Good news. That is a better type of circlip, the normal type fall off.
Cheers
Stag

Thanks for the pics, very useful. I'm in process of converting my GP side casing and end plate to this style, due to CYCLONE 5 fitting nightmares and was wondering which spring and ramp to use. Slowly getting there.