LCGB Forums

I purchased a great chromed chain case off eBay, and in my excitement to move the bits from old to new I stupidly didn't take any pics. Stickys book sadly doesn't show how to replace the clutch lever and I thought I had followed the kickshaft replacement to the letter.

I am told it was an li casing and comparing side by side before I put on it looked identical.

Engine stood for two - three weeks in garage with old casing removed, so possibly cork plates could have dried out I guess?. And have now reassembled and bolted on, yet to add oil

Problems I now have are

1. Clutch has no feel, I have the internal lug that activates the clutch in line with the arm, is this right? May it just be a case of resetting it by pulling inner tighter?
2. Kick shaft seems to be slipping, even though clutch not engaged, I checked for smooth movement before I refitted nand it worked fine. Put it on and the first kick down I heard the barrel move, the second kick lever went down but no barrel movement, 3 red kick partial..just like when having the clutch set too tight?

I know I'm going to have to take it off but what should I look for / adjust?
thanks

The internal pawl should sit more or less flat to the casings. The clutch arm should be at about 45 degrees to the gasket face more towards the rear.

Like this



It's likely the clutch is on if it is as you described.

The internal pawl should be at 90 degrees to the clutch arm.You say that the barrel moved,do you mean the cylinder barrel.It should not move at all,the cylinder head should be fastened and torqued down and the barrel wont move.


EDIT Make sure you have the clutch pawl the right way around (the flat part of the pawl goes against the sidecase)

Thanks, the picture is very helpful, sorry I meant to saw the piston moved, the top end is all bolted up, I heard the pop sound as the air passed out the exhaust port ( exhaust is off now)

That looks like a GP side case to me, it has the casting for the clutch piston that slides on top of the cam. Not sure if that would prevent it working with the Li Clutch with the nipple in the middle (that is still there I hope).

The slipping is most likely down to the kickstart shaft rubbing on the clutch top plate. Is the shaft pulled fully into the casing? there should be some shim washers on the outside under the big circlip.

Is it not the case that the early Li kickstat shaft and casing are different from later Li and Gp?
I remember something about the internal boss for the kickstart on older Li chaincases needing to be machined down to work with the later strengthened kickstart shaft...if you have an older kickstart shaft it might not fit properly in a GP chaincase?

As far as I can tell,all you need to do for it to work with the Li clutch thimble,is to remove the GP brass clutch plunger,I dont think any machining is needed.By the way thats an internet photo,the op might well have the correct sidecase.

It is a GP case, but it was just to illustrate the orientation of the pal which is basically the same.