LCGB Forums

Guys,
Probably been done to death but I've just brought one of these tools and there are no instructions with it, tried YouTube but no videos of it being assembled...

So, would anybody have any instructions they can email me how this thing actually works please.

Thanks in advance

Trevor

This may help you -> https://1965tv175.wordpress.com/2014/08 ... intenance/

& this

To replace your old smaller engine mounts with the larger GP silent blocks. In the pics below, you see that he used an engine mount removal tool (from Beedspeed) that was used on a 150 case.

General steps while removing with the tool:

1. Assemble the cylinder as the first pic. Have the engine out of your frame, remove rear cable selectors, rear break, rear shock, engine bolt.

2. The removal tool bolt goes in through the top of the cylinder, through the old mount, then through the press washer, and finally the nut. Note, the cut out end of the cylinder will fit snug over the case mount from the outside.

3. Ratchet the nut form the inside and presto, the old mount will fall into the cylinder when it is completely out.

Tips while pressing:

1. The Beedspeed press washer is recessed for the outside of the mount. It will fit quite obviously. Just tap the new engine mount with a rubber mallet to hold in place carefully. Should just be a couple of taps, before you can ratchet down.

2. The inside press washer is larger than the engine mount hole. So now you just have to rachet down, you will see the new engine mount move towards the case until flush.

Results: Found a significant engine vibration reduction, definetly a more comfortable ride.







16.jpg

Thanks Norrie bodge...very helpful, really appreciated..

Trevor

I usually warm the casing with a hot air paint stripper gun to aid the removal and refitting of the mounts.

Yes needs to be good and hot and you need to be quite quick.

Also bear in mind that, if changing small Li type blocks for longer GP type, you need to change the frame cones too.

Thanks guys, I will definitely be heating it up, I'm actually changing a complete engine over, brought a 200 casing from eBay after mine has been diagnosed terminally I'll, so it's the longer silentbloc that I have, I assume that I will have to let them cool right down after taking out before re fitting into the new casing.

Also I've found a quality welder who believes he may be able to sort out the old casing to, assuming he can I will be rebuilding again later this year but i will need to buy everything for it, might go rb 250 route. ..

Fit the new silent blocs while the engine casing is still warm. It will tighten onto the blocs as it cools.

Hi freight10
I found applied heat from the crankcase lugs quickly transferred to the silent blocks and the process locked up so I removed the silent block and used emery cloth on the blocks for a few minutes to reduce minutely the diameter of the silent block.I did this three times for each block.Better to bu**er up the silent block than crack your crankcase lug.For a first attempt I would freeze the silent block and heat the lug and hope it goes in reasonably easy
Good luck
Grandpa

If anyone else needs instructions .... http://www.scooter-center.com/en/produc ... GE_KATALOG .... browse online page 95.