LCGB Forums

Hi

I'm having a bit of bother with my gear roller.
I have a nylon gear wheel, bushes all on a metal shaft but there is a lot of play on the roller.
I first noticed that the pin to the roller kept dropping out, so I changed it to a 5mm pin but that also kept dropping out.
So now I have a bolt in there but I still have a fair bit of play on the roller, so much so that I can't get fourth gear.

Any ideas or alternatives to the split pin

Cheers in advance
CB

I always use a machine screw and nut instead of the pin, it's easier to remove at the side of the road if needed. I prefer the alloy wheel too. You can get at lot of play in the plastic bush at the end of the handle bars which has the same effect, ie the gear change handle has movement even if the cables are pulled very tight. Plastic wears, particularly the White Indian ones. The Black wheels and bushes that Scootopia sell seem more nylon than plastic so harder and MB sell brass bushes that absorb vibration as well.

Cheers for that, what size/type bolt would you recommend?

I looked at the mbd stuff and although good, I was of after a quick fix before I splashed out on some new stuff

I seem to have a pattern of when something goes wrong I then buy something to fix it before trying alternatives and wasting money as well as having spare parts lying around

cheers in advance
CB

i use the metal wheel in the headset, i then tap the hole in the rod, file a flat over the hole in the wheel, then put a machine screw in, it tightens up onto the rod, and no play, you can also put a nut on the other side, much better than a roll pin. i also had play at the other end with the plastic bush so i made one out of metal and glued it on, no play at all now, then check the engine end for play, this end can cause a lot of problems, i fit a rose joint and stud, to make a perfect gearchange

holty wrote:i use the metal wheel in the headset, i then tap the hole in the rod, file a flat over the hole in the wheel, then put a machine screw in, it tightens up onto the rod, and no play, you can also put a nut on the other side, much better than a roll pin. i also had play at the other end with the plastic bush so i made one out of metal and glued it on, no play at all now, then check the engine end for play, this end can cause a lot of problems, i fit a rose joint and stud, to make a perfect gearchange

Cheers for that and well worth looking into, I don't suppose I can be cheeky and ask if you have a couple of photos of the rose joint and stud set up please
CB

holty wrote:I also had play at the other end with the plastic bush so i made one out of metal and glued it on, no play at all now

Why glue it when you can weld it?

In fact, why not abandon the plasstic products and pick up the splined rod and related metal wheel from a parts fair (Wicksteed next week) and fit these, inc the welding. Much less play. I always do this and avoid the plastic every time.

Yes, there is plenty to be done at the bottom end too, especially where the tie bar joins the gear arm. Cut off the stud that the circlip fits to, and replace it with a welded M6 stud or inverted bolt, and secure it with a nyloc. Drill the hole at the end of the tie bar with a new, clean, 6mm hole. Less slop.

Charliebubble47 wrote:

holty wrote:i use the metal wheel in the headset, i then tap the hole in the rod, file a flat over the hole in the wheel, then put a machine screw in, it tightens up onto the rod, and no play, you can also put a nut on the other side, much better than a roll pin. i also had play at the other end with the plastic bush so i made one out of metal and glued it on, no play at all now, then check the engine end for play, this end can cause a lot of problems, i fit a rose joint and stud, to make a perfect gearchange

Cheers for that and well worth looking into, I don't suppose I can be cheeky and ask if you have a couple of photos of the rose joint and stud set up please
CB

Sorry that it's blurred but it had to be compressed to load up....Hopefully you'll get the gist. It's a cut-down, bent up tie bar with a spherical (rose) joint mounted on to a stud screwed in place of the worn out spigot. Something I've been doing for many, many years. Just like the KN nuts that you can also see....

Must admit I ditched the roll pin on the throttle side and replaced with a machine screw and nut. Had I right game knocking the roll pin out when I fitted a return spring to the throttle so replaced with screw instead.

Thank you gents

Lots of good ideas there for me to look into but for now I've swapped the nylon wheel for another one I had kicking around, the original one the hole had elongated, and put in a machine bolt and nyloc nut instead of the split pin

Hopefully this will fettle it up

Thanks for all your advice
CB